From Overtraining to Finding Discipline in Efficiency – Coach Charlie Schreiber

Charlie Schreiber is a climbing coach who runs Paradigm Climbing and works with all levels of athletes–including elite competitive ones–from all over the world. He’s also a very strong boulderer, having sent up to V13 and continuously training to improve his own climbing.

In this interview, we talked about a range of topics, including how he used to overtrain and how his climbing and physical well-being improved when he learned to be more efficient with his training. This concept permeates the rest of our talk, as it guides him as a coach to do the best job possible.

Here’s what we talked about:

• His experience as a youth coach
• Overtraining vs. Disciplined Athlete
• Training for an overhung crimpy boulder
• Linear periodization vs logical progression
• Case study of sport climbing’s 3-month training plan
• How to know when you’re fully recovered
• Why he has a coach himself
• How he uses video analysis
• How to have process goals vs outcome goals in training and climbing
• How to access flow state
• Making the tedious into the enjoyable and habit stacking

Listen on iTunes or Spotify

Bonus: Masterclass on Training Power Endurance

In a bonus episode for subscribers on Apple Podcasts and Patreon, Charlie and I spent a while talking specifically about how to train power endurance, and he gets very scientific about it.

• How to train power endurance
• How to test components of power endurance
• Protocols he uses on boulders
• Qualitative parameters for stopping a session
• Using timers, different workouts you can do
• Training power endurance on routes

You can find all of that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free video and audio versions of episode without ads, intro, or outro on my Patreon page.

Work with One of the TrainingBeta Coaches

Both Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are currently taking new coaching clients! Both of them help climbers from all over the world get stronger and more skillful at climbing. If you work with them for a month of training and coaching, this is what you can expect:

• Introductory zoom call to get all of your details, goals, strengths, injuries, etc
• Create a training plan that you’ll access via the TrueCoach app
• Contact throughout the month either on zoom or on TrueCoach for encouragement and tweaks to the plan
• Clearly laid out instructions about what to do in your indoor and outdoor sessions
• You’ll gain strength, tactics, and confidence in your climbing abilities

If you want Matt or Alex to help you with your climbing, whether they’re with bouldering or route climbing, click the link below to get started.