Training routes in a climbing gym can be tricky.  Even putting aside other hurdles like crowds, the main reason for this is that you need a partner to belay you.  While this may not seem like too big of a deal, try consistently finding someone who is going to selflessly belay you for a 45 min ARC session or while you bang out strictly timed intervals.  This is where tools like the treadwall really shine.

Treadwalls are extremely effective in helping you train endurance as they let you climb upwards indefinitely.  However, like any training tool, there are right and wrong ways to use a treadwall.  To show you how to use them effectively, here’s an article from Climbing Magazine by Hailey Moore that covers the basics, gives you so good tips, and outlines two different workouts to get you started treadwall training.

“The body uses two energy systems to power its muscles: aerobic and anaerobic. Conditioning the aerobic energy system, through Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity (ARC) training, a term coined by Mike and Mark Anderson in The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, translates to increased efficiency, faster recovery, and a foundation of fitness. The ARC method targets the forearms; maintaining a steady stress load on this muscle group will result in more local capillaries, meaning better blood flow and less pump. Meanwhile, anaerobic training involves high-intensity climbing for durations of two minutes or less. Increasing anaerobic capacity helps with harder bursts of crux climbing on sport routes or with long boulder problems.” – Hailey Moore

Treadwall Workouts

While the discussion of the energy systems used in climbing is beyond the scope of this post, suffice it to say that anyone looking to improve their endurance should train both the aerobic and anaerobic systems.  Moore’s article outlines one workout for each designed by Bill Ramsey and Andy Raether.  They are:

• ARC training to target capacity, endurance, and on-route recovery
• High intensity intervals for higher end endurance and power endurance training

Click through below to read about these workouts and Moore’s general treadwalling tips in greater detail.  Climbing on a treadwall may not seem like the most fun, but using structured workouts like these rather than simply heading to the gym to lap some routes will make a big difference in helping you take your route climbing to the next level!

Full Article: Treadwall Training with Climbing Magazine

(photo by James Lucas; courtesy of climbing.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Bill Ramsey: Treadwall Training
• Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14
• Periodization and Load Progression for ARC Training
• How To Do The Power Endurance Program Without Routes