The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss running for climbing fitness, whether it actually works to keep you fit, and how to structure your training plan and your nutrition in order to do both, if that's what you really want to do.
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
In this episode I explain the ins and outs of carbohydrate consumption for rock climbers and how it affects energy levels, performance, recovery, and overall well-being.
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into the 5.13 grade and what you need physically and mentally to do it.
TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
Brian Lichtenheld talks about how he balances climbing outside 4 days a week with having a demanding 50-hour-a-week job, plus a healthy relationship with his girlfriend, and volunteering commitments.
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Climbing Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
Coach Alex Stiger interviews Doctor of Physical Therapy, Evan Ingerson, who specializes in climbers. They discuss how to approach climbing injuries, and what the proper steps towards healing should be.
TBP 180 :: Grades – How to Keep Your Ego in Check and Use Them to Your Advantage
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss all things climbing grades, including why there are disparities in grades across the globe, how to keep your ego in check with grades, and how to use them to your advantage.
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
In the episode, my former client Laura Schmidt talks about the changes she made to her diet and lifestyle when we worked together and how they improved her energy levels, her climbing, and her quality of life.
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of making a gym session really count, and how to stay in a positive mindset most of the time.
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
In the episode, Lor Sabourin talks about their experience of coming out and how to keep your wits about you in climbing.
Neely Quinn on The Nugget Podcast with Steven Dimmitt
This is a repost (with a little intro from me) of an episode of the Nugget Climbing Podcast where Steven Dimmitt interviewed me, Neely Quinn about the TrainingBeta Podcast, TrainingBeta, my climbing, injuries, and my personal life.
TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the nebulous topic of trying hard in climbing. Like, really trying hard.
TBP 175 :: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
In this episode I explain the ins and outs of protein consumption for rock climbers, and how it affects energy levels, performance, recovery, and overall well-being.
TBP 174 :: Caroline Treadway on “Light” and Her Own Eating Disorder Struggles
In the episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training.
TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus, Coach Alex Stiger, and I answered listener questions about training and nutrition. This is a 40-minute sneak-preview of an episode on Patreon.
TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase with Coach Matt Pincus
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss our top 8 tips to have a successful performance phase (sending season, climbing trip, etc).