The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You’re in a Plateau
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about navigating the overwhelming number of training options that are available to us now. We try to help guide you in your decisions about the who, what, and where, and to empower you to do what's right for you at this time in your life.
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
In this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition.
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes – Running, Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
Lucie Hanes talks about how she trains to be an elite climber AND an elite runner and how she's recovering from an eating disorder and RED-S.
TBP 188 :: Rest – How Much Is Too Much and How to Navigate the Holidays
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss how to approach rest throughout the year and specifically during the upcoming holiday season when you might be traveling in a place that doesn't have climbing or training equipment.
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
Matt Samet talks about his love of route development, how he mixes parenthood with climbing, how he still climbs as hard at 50 as he did at 25, the long-term effects of benzo addiction, and how anorexia affected his climbing back in the day.
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
In this interview, Tyler Nelson explains a new way of warming up that helps prevent injuries and properly prepares our bodies for hard rock climbing.
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss running for climbing fitness, whether it actually works to keep you fit, and how to structure your training plan and your nutrition in order to do both, if that's what you really want to do.
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
In this episode I explain the ins and outs of carbohydrate consumption for rock climbers and how it affects energy levels, performance, recovery, and overall well-being.
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into the 5.13 grade and what you need physically and mentally to do it.
TBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
Brian Lichtenheld talks about how he balances climbing outside 4 days a week with having a demanding 50-hour-a-week job, plus a healthy relationship with his girlfriend, and volunteering commitments.
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Climbing Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
Coach Alex Stiger interviews Doctor of Physical Therapy, Evan Ingerson, who specializes in climbers. They discuss how to approach climbing injuries, and what the proper steps towards healing should be.
TBP 180 :: Grades – How to Keep Your Ego in Check and Use Them to Your Advantage
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss all things climbing grades, including why there are disparities in grades across the globe, how to keep your ego in check with grades, and how to use them to your advantage.
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
In the episode, my former client Laura Schmidt talks about the changes she made to her diet and lifestyle when we worked together and how they improved her energy levels, her climbing, and her quality of life.
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of making a gym session really count, and how to stay in a positive mindset most of the time.
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
In the episode, Lor Sabourin talks about their experience of coming out and how to keep your wits about you in climbing.