The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
Dr. Jared Vagy talks about new research about finger injuries in climbers and how that's affected his protocols for healing them.
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger’s Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she's training to send her first 5.14a this summer/fall. This is a rare exploration of an experienced coach/climber's process around building their own training program.
TBP 199: Alternatives When You’re Too Tired for Your Session – Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus discusses some alternatives for what to do instead when you're too tired to execute a programmed session.
TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan – The President of Sportrock on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50
President of Sportrock Lillian Chao-Quinlan discusses the mental and physical tactics she used to send her first 5.13d at the age of 49 and to reach her goal of 50 5.13's by 50.
TBP 196 :: How the Pursuit of Perfection Has Helped Keenan Takahashi Climb V15
Pro climber Keenan Takahashi talks about his pursuit of progression and perfection in bouldering, and how recently starting training has already improved his abilities.
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
In the episode, Coach Alex Stiger discusses how she assesses people's climbing skills and how to improve using drills and objective learning.
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for ourselves and for our clients.
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
Bobbi Bensman talks about her life as a professional climber and how she's still climbing 5.13 at the age of 58 even with a full-time job and kids now.
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
My mother-in-law, Elyn Lytton, talks about how she is making climbing a sustainable part of her life for many years to come and how she's dealt with arthritis and osteoporosis through diet and exercise.
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You’re in a Plateau
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about navigating the overwhelming number of training options that are available to us now. We try to help guide you in your decisions about the who, what, and where, and to empower you to do what's right for you at this time in your life.
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
In this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition.
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes – Running, Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
Lucie Hanes talks about how she trains to be an elite climber AND an elite runner and how she's recovering from an eating disorder and RED-S.
TBP 188 :: Rest – How Much Is Too Much and How to Navigate the Holidays
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss how to approach rest throughout the year and specifically during the upcoming holiday season when you might be traveling in a place that doesn't have climbing or training equipment.
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
Matt Samet talks about his love of route development, how he mixes parenthood with climbing, how he still climbs as hard at 50 as he did at 25, the long-term effects of benzo addiction, and how anorexia affected his climbing back in the day.
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
In this interview, Tyler Nelson explains a new way of warming up that helps prevent injuries and properly prepares our bodies for hard rock climbing.