The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
V14 boulderer Allison Vest talks about transitioning from comp climbing to outdoor bouldering, body image issues, and how she trains
TBP 206 :: How We’re Approaching Our Mega Projects (Alex, Matt, and Neely)
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we're approaching our megaprojects this season.
TBP 205 :: How Erin Ettenger Went from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups
Erin Ettenger talks about how our Route Climbing Training Program helped her progress from projecting 5.11a's to warming up on them.
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus’s Own Training Plan
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for summer project and some mistakes he made along the way.
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb talks about what sets her apart as a climber, why she's not sponsored, and what motivates her to do what she does.
TBP 202 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do about a finger injury.
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
Dr. Jared Vagy talks about new research about finger injuries in climbers and how that's affected his protocols for healing them.
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger’s Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she's training to send her first 5.14a this summer/fall. This is a rare exploration of an experienced coach/climber's process around building their own training program.
TBP 199: Alternatives When You’re Too Tired for Your Session – Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus discusses some alternatives for what to do instead when you're too tired to execute a programmed session.
TBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan – The President of Sportrock on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50
President of Sportrock Lillian Chao-Quinlan discusses the mental and physical tactics she used to send her first 5.13d at the age of 49 and to reach her goal of 50 5.13's by 50.
TBP 196 :: How the Pursuit of Perfection Has Helped Keenan Takahashi Climb V15
Pro climber Keenan Takahashi talks about his pursuit of progression and perfection in bouldering, and how recently starting training has already improved his abilities.
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
In the episode, Coach Alex Stiger discusses how she assesses people's climbing skills and how to improve using drills and objective learning.
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for ourselves and for our clients.
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
Bobbi Bensman talks about her life as a professional climber and how she's still climbing 5.13 at the age of 58 even with a full-time job and kids now.
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
My mother-in-law, Elyn Lytton, talks about how she is making climbing a sustainable part of her life for many years to come and how she's dealt with arthritis and osteoporosis through diet and exercise.