The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
In this episode, I talk with pro climber and mental training coach, Hazel Findlay, about the three most common fears in climbing and how to overcome them.
TBP 215 :: How We’ve All Grown as Coaches Over the Years
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we've all grown and improved as coaches over the years.
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s Most Common Advice to Coaching Clients
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients.
TBP 213 :: What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
In this episode, I talk about what foods to bring to the crag so you can have high energy, climb well all day, and recover quickly.
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
In this episode, Tyler explains why the fingerboard may not be the most applicable way to train finger strength and what some alternatives are.
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them.
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
In this episode, I talk with dog trainer, Jenna Teti, about how we can teach our dogs to behave better when we're outside climbing.
TBP 209 :: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
In this episode, I talk all about how to figure out how many calories--how much food--you should be eating in your meals, snacks, and throughout each day in order to feel energized, climb well, and have the body composition that's right for you.
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely’s Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about our own biggest mistakes in climbing, whether they're about training, climbing tactics, or nutrition.
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
V14 boulderer Allison Vest talks about transitioning from comp climbing to outdoor bouldering, body image issues, and how she trains
TBP 206 :: How We’re Approaching Our Mega Projects (Alex, Matt, and Neely)
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we're approaching our megaprojects this season.
TBP 205 :: How Erin Ettenger Went from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups
Erin Ettenger talks about how our Route Climbing Training Program helped her progress from projecting 5.11a's to warming up on them.
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus’s Own Training Plan
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for summer project and some mistakes he made along the way.
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb talks about what sets her apart as a climber, why she's not sponsored, and what motivates her to do what she does.
TBP 202 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do about a finger injury.