The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.12 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and Neely Quinn discuss good crag etiquette to help everyone have a great time climbing.
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the specific tactics she used to send a long, pumpy route close to her limit without having trained endurance before her trip.
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Diet to Improve His Climbing
I talk with David Farkas about the things we changed in his nutrition and lifestyle to help him climb harder and lose weight.
TBP 218 :: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of intermittent fasting and the keto diet for rock climbers.
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
In this episode I talk with climbing instructor, Kevin Roet, about climbing psychology and how to up your mental game.
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
In this episode, I talk with pro climber and mental training coach, Hazel Findlay, about the three most common fears in climbing and how to overcome them.
TBP 215 :: How We’ve All Grown as Coaches Over the Years
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we've all grown and improved as coaches over the years.
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s Most Common Advice to Coaching Clients
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients.
TBP 213 :: What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
In this episode, I talk about what foods to bring to the crag so you can have high energy, climb well all day, and recover quickly.
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
In this episode, Tyler explains why the fingerboard may not be the most applicable way to train finger strength and what some alternatives are.
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them.
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
In this episode, I talk with dog trainer, Jenna Teti, about how we can teach our dogs to behave better when we're outside climbing.
TBP 209 :: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
In this episode, I talk all about how to figure out how many calories--how much food--you should be eating in your meals, snacks, and throughout each day in order to feel energized, climb well, and have the body composition that's right for you.
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely’s Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about our own biggest mistakes in climbing, whether they're about training, climbing tactics, or nutrition.