The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 238: Performance Anxiety Coaching Session with Alex and Neely
Matt describes the new Route Training Program and then I do a life coaching session with Coach Alex about performance anxiety on her project.
TBP 237 :: Our Top 3 Habits for Success in Life and Climbing with Neely and Matt
Matt Pincus and Neely Quinn each offer up their top 3 habits that help make them successful in climbing, work, health, relationships, and life in general.
TBP 236: Common Sense Finger Training with Matt and Alex
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss some common sense finger training strategies for rock climbers of all abilities.
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.12 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 234 :: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
I talk with ER doc, father of 3, bio-hacker, and 5.14c climber, Thomas Cunningham about using a CGM and a Whoop to optimize fueling, training, and recovery for climbing.
TBP 232 :: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how to use a checklist and other tactics to break down hard route projects into digestible parts.
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Matt and Alex
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they train all the different energy systems in climbing.
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the skills, training, and mindset required for all the different angles of climbing.
TBP 229 :: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
I talk with ER doc, father of 3, bio-hacker, and 5.14c climber, Thomas Cunningham about what it takes to train for and send 5.14c with limited time.
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
I talk with pro climber, Majka Burhardt, about how her life changed when she had twins, her new book about that, and how she juggles motherhood, climbing, and her non-profit.
TBP 227 :: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tools she uses to stay motivated in her climbing almost all the time.
TBP 226 :: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus talks with his client, Bridget Roell, about how she went from 5.13b to 5.14a while they worked together on her climbing training and tactics.
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Training
In this episode, Tyler explains what an uneven grip is on the hangboard and how it can help to rehabilitate finger injuries and make you stronger.
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette’s Psychological Tools for Climbers
I talk with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about Dialectical Behavior Therapy tools that climbers can use to regulate their emotions and deal with interpersonal conflict.
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they coach their clients to be better and stronger boulderers.