The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Matt and Alex
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they train all the different energy systems in climbing.
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the skills, training, and mindset required for all the different angles of climbing.
TBP 229 :: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
I talk with ER doc, father of 3, bio-hacker, and 5.14c climber, Thomas Cunningham about what it takes to train for and send 5.14c with limited time.
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
I talk with pro climber, Majka Burhardt, about how her life changed when she had twins, her new book about that, and how she juggles motherhood, climbing, and her non-profit.
TBP 227 :: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tools she uses to stay motivated in her climbing almost all the time.
TBP 226 :: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus talks with his client, Bridget Roell, about how she went from 5.13b to 5.14a while they worked together on her climbing training and tactics.
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Training
In this episode, Tyler explains what an uneven grip is on the hangboard and how it can help to rehabilitate finger injuries and make you stronger.
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette’s Psychological Tools for Climbers
I talk with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about Dialectical Behavior Therapy tools that climbers can use to regulate their emotions and deal with interpersonal conflict.
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they coach their clients to be better and stronger boulderers.
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.12 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and Neely Quinn discuss good crag etiquette to help everyone have a great time climbing.
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the specific tactics she used to send a long, pumpy route close to her limit without having trained endurance before her trip.
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Diet to Improve His Climbing
I talk with David Farkas about the things we changed in his nutrition and lifestyle to help him climb harder and lose weight.
TBP 218 :: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of intermittent fasting and the keto diet for rock climbers.
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
In this episode I talk with climbing instructor, Kevin Roet, about climbing psychology and how to up your mental game.