The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 247 :: How to Train and Prepare for a Trip to Hueco
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to prepare and train for a bouldering trip to Hueco Tanks
TBP 246 :: Nutrition Session with Climber to Improve Recovery and Performance (It Worked!)
Neely does an in-depth nutrition session (and follow-up session) with a climber who struggles with poor recovery from climbing and training and wants to feel stronger while projecting.
TBP 245 :: 5 Principles of Climbing Trip Prep with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers 5 things to take into consideration when preparing for a climbing trip weeks or months in advance.
TBP 244 :: Training Guidelines while Projecting Outside
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what and when to train in the gym when you're trying to send hard projects outside.
TBP 243 :: How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a (8b+) after 5 Years
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it took for her to send her long-term 5.14a (8b+) project after 5 years of working on it
TBP 242 :: Alannah Yip on Her Training & Climbing’s Weight Problem
Canadian Olympic and World Cup climber, Alannah Yip, discusses her mental training, her physical training, her 2023 season, and her thoughts on the climbing community's weight problem.
TBP 241 :: How Delphine Chenevier Climbed Her First 14b (8c) at Age 48
French climber Delphine Chenevier talks about how she got strong (and smart) enough in her training for climbing to send her first 8b+ (14a) at the age of 47 and her first 8c (14b) at 48.
TBP 240 :: Nutrition Session with Climber to Improve Fatigue
Neely does an in-depth nutrition session with a climber who struggles every day with fatigue, especially on climbing days.
TBP 239 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training Finger Endurance
In this episode, Tyler explains how to train finger endurance using a strain gauge or a hangboard without needing too much recovery time.
TBP 238: Performance Anxiety Coaching Session with Alex and Neely
Matt describes the new Route Training Program and then I do a life coaching session with Coach Alex about performance anxiety on her project.
TBP 237 :: Our Top 3 Habits for Success in Life and Climbing with Neely and Matt
Matt Pincus and Neely Quinn each offer up their top 3 habits that help make them successful in climbing, work, health, relationships, and life in general.
TBP 236: Common Sense Finger Training with Matt and Alex
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss some common sense finger training strategies for rock climbers of all abilities.
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.12 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 234 :: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
I talk with ER doc, father of 3, bio-hacker, and 5.14c climber, Thomas Cunningham about using a CGM and a Whoop to optimize fueling, training, and recovery for climbing.
TBP 232 :: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
Coach Matt Pincus talks about how to use a checklist and other tactics to break down hard route projects into digestible parts.