The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford
Therapist Tyler Stableford describes some therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives and in climbing.
TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain Simply a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?
Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.
TBP 251 :: Climbing Drills for Beginner to Elite Climbers with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate climbing drills into your sessions, why you'd do that, and which drills to do, whether you're a novice, intermediate, or elite climber.
TBP 250 :: Sugar Cravings – Why They Exist and How to Tame Them
In this episode I explain why we have sugar cravings and the surprising way to sustainably decrease them while also nourishing our bodies with what they need.
TBP 249 :: Breaking into 5.11 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.11 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 248: Climbing Trip Types and Their Pros and Cons (Projecting vs. Just Having Fun)
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss the differences between a few different types of climbing trips and the pros and cons of each.
TBP 247 :: How to Train and Prepare for a Trip to Hueco
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to prepare and train for a bouldering trip to Hueco Tanks
TBP 246 :: Nutrition Session with Climber to Improve Recovery and Performance (It Worked!)
Neely does an in-depth nutrition session (and follow-up session) with a climber who struggles with poor recovery from climbing and training and wants to feel stronger while projecting.
TBP 245 :: 5 Principles of Climbing Trip Prep with Matt Pincus
Coach Matt Pincus offers 5 things to take into consideration when preparing for a climbing trip weeks or months in advance.
TBP 244 :: Training Guidelines while Projecting Outside
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what and when to train in the gym when you're trying to send hard projects outside.
TBP 243 :: How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a (8b+) after 5 Years
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it took for her to send her long-term 5.14a (8b+) project after 5 years of working on it
TBP 242 :: Alannah Yip on Her Training & Climbing’s Weight Problem
Canadian Olympic and World Cup climber, Alannah Yip, discusses her mental training, her physical training, her 2023 season, and her thoughts on the climbing community's weight problem.
TBP 241 :: How Delphine Chenevier Climbed Her First 14b (8c) at Age 48
French climber Delphine Chenevier talks about how she got strong (and smart) enough in her training for climbing to send her first 8b+ (14a) at the age of 47 and her first 8c (14b) at 48.
TBP 240 :: Nutrition Session with Climber to Improve Fatigue
Neely does an in-depth nutrition session with a climber who struggles every day with fatigue, especially on climbing days.
TBP 239 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training Finger Endurance
In this episode, Tyler explains how to train finger endurance using a strain gauge or a hangboard without needing too much recovery time.