The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 266 :: Negative Body Image Mindset Coaching Session with a Climber
I do a mindset coaching session with Climber Robynne Murray about her negative body image to find tools to have less shame about her body.
TBP 265 :: Jesse Grupper on Comp Climbing, Training, and His Positive Mindset
World cup competitor, Olympian, and sport climbing phenom Jesse Grupper details his training, his positive mindset tactics, and how he's dealing with a finger injury.
TBP 264 :: Coaching Session to Help a Climber Send His 1st 5.13a (7c+)
Climbing coach Matt Pincus does a coaching session with Kyle Smith to help him reach his goal of sending his first 5.13a (7c+).
TBP 263 :: From 5.13 Big Walls to 5.14c Sport – Bronwyn Hodgins’ Training
Pro climber Bronwyn Hodgins talks about her training and mindset that took her from 5.13 big walls and one 5.14a sport climb to 5.14c in just one year.
[Replay!] TBP 262 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what it takes to break into 5.12 climbing consistently and exactly what you can do to get there.
TBP 261 :: Ben Hanna’s Training and Mindset for Competitions and 5.15a
Pro climber Ben Hanna talks about his training and mindset that allow him to climb 5.15a and win national climbing titles.
TBP 260 :: Short Climbers – How to Feel Less Frustrated by Your Height
I help you go through a mindset coaching process to help you feel less frustrated about being a short climber.
TBP 259 :: Sleep Researcher Aric Prather Gives You Tips to Sleep Better and Longer
Sleep researcher, clinician, and author Aric Prather, PhD gives practical advice on how to sleep better so you can feel better & climb harder.
TBP 258 :: Training and Climbing for People with Full-Time Jobs
Alex Stiger, Matt Pincus, and Neely Quinn discuss the training and nutrition hacks that climbers with full-time jobs can use to maximize their time on the wall and in the gym.
TBP 257 :: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Tyler Nelson talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he's discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.
TBP 256 :: Shaina Savoy and Neely Quinn Answer Nutrition Questions from Climbers
Shaina Savoy and Neely Quinn answer nutrition questions from climbers about how to eat to climb well, when to try to lose weight, how to eat as an aging climber, and more.
TBP 255 :: Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angela Payne on Motherhood & Climbing
Emily Harrington, Paige Claassen, and Angie Payne talk about their experiences with pregnancy and motherhood as elite climbers, how it's changed their climbing, and the most challenging parts of it all.
TBP 254 :: Kelly Birch on Training, Weights, Nutrition, and Mindset to Climb V14
Kelly Birch talks about her climbing training to send V14, why weight lifting is so important to her, how she fuels herself nutritionally, and how she uses a mastery mindset in climbing.
TBP 253 :: How to Feel More Fulfilled in Climbing with Tyler Stableford
Therapist Tyler Stableford describes some therapy methods and concepts that can help climbers enjoy the sport more and find deeper fulfillment in their lives and in climbing.
TBP 252 :: Is Your Pain Simply a Product of Your Thoughts & Emotions?
Therapist Sarah Brock Chavez explains how pain can be caused by your negative thoughts & emotions, and what you can do to get out of pain.