The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries
Direct Download: LINK Date: July 3rd, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is [...]
TBP 025 :: Steve Maisch on Home Wall Training and Lifting for Climbing
Direct Download: LINK Date: June 22nd, 2015 About Steve Maisch Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for [...]
TBP 024 :: Hazel Findlay on Being Brave and Staying Humble
Direct Download: LINK Date: June 10th, 2015 About Hazel Findlay By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically 5.13d but with death fall potential). The British phenom can been seen in videos doing sketchy climbing way above [...]
TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing
Direct Download: LINK Date: June 3rd, 2015 About Arno Ilgner Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started [...]
TBP 022 :: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54
Direct Download: LINK Date: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year [...]
TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
Direct Download: LINK Date: May 20th, 2015 About Alex Puccio Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to [...]
TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d
Direct Download: LINK Date: May 14th, 2015 About Alex Barrows I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student [...]
TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids
Direct Download: LINK Date: April 28th, 2015 About Eric Hörst Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due [...]
TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard
Direct Download: LINK Date: March 30th, 2015 About Mike Doyle Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, [...]
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
Direct Download: LINK Date: February 18th, 2015 I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. About Adam Ondra He doesn't really need much of [...]
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism
Direct Download: LINK I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph Davis I can't really do [...]
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects
Date: January 7th, 2015 Direct Download: LINK It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular [...]
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
October 31st, 2014 Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all types and ability levels, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared [...]
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an [...]
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to [...]