The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
Date: April 5th, 2016 New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing [...]
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
Date: March 31st, 2016 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and started working with climbers of all abilities, including elite level/competition climbers, in Colorado. Currently she works at the Seattle [...]
Ask Kris :: Finger Training Mini Episode
Date: March 29th, 2016 New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the [...]
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
Date: March 24th, 2016 About Neil Gresham This is an interview with Neil Gresham, a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still [...]
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
Date: March 14th, 2016 About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th [...]
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
Date: March 7th, 2016 About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am your host for the podcast every week, but I'm also a practicing nutrition therapist, and have been since about 2007. I've helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health, and I love working with people and studying [...]
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on 15b, V15, and Depression
Date: February 24th, 2016 About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first [...]
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker Talks Training for Alpine Routes
Date: February 16th, 2016 About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was [...]
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains The Ketogenic Diet
February 9th, 2016 Ketogenic Diet and Climbers I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and due to their media coverage of it, I expect that a lot of people will want [...]
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V13
Date: February 3rd, 2016 About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a [...]
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong [...]
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
Date: January 6th, 2016 About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored [...]
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, and Fear
Date: December 31st, 2015 About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers in the world, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's [...]
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Thorough and Scientific Training Methods
Date: December 16th, 2015 About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical [...]
TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and has been quite successful on national [...]