The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 052 :: How Mathilde Becerra Is Top 10 in World for Lead Climbing
Date: May 5th, 2016 About Mathilde Becerra This is an interview with 25 year-old Mathilde Becerra, who's on the French National Climbing team. In 2015, Mathilde ended up in the top 10 overall in lead climbing, and even though she doesn't have much time for outdoor climbing, she has climbed up to 5.14a [...]
Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers
Date: May 2nd, 2016 Shoulder Care for Climbers This week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about shoulder care for climbers - one of my favorite topics. A lot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss what to do after you have a shoulder injury and [...]
TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains
Date: April 14th, 2016 About Sean McColl This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors and in competitions. I can't describe his amazing accomplishments better than he does on his website, so here's an excerpt... "Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion [...]
Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
Date: April 12th, 2016 Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them. Why route climbers need to train power and how to do [...]
TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs
Date: April 7th, 2016 About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training programs. She also regularly puts in 70 hours per week as an environmental engineer, so I thought she'd be a perfect [...]
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
Date: April 5th, 2016 New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing [...]
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
Date: March 31st, 2016 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and started working with climbers of all abilities, including elite level/competition climbers, in Colorado. Currently she works at the Seattle [...]
Ask Kris :: Finger Training Mini Episode
Date: March 29th, 2016 New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the [...]
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
Date: March 24th, 2016 About Neil Gresham This is an interview with Neil Gresham, a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still [...]
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
Date: March 14th, 2016 About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th [...]
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
Date: March 7th, 2016 About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am your host for the podcast every week, but I'm also a practicing nutrition therapist, and have been since about 2007. I've helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health, and I love working with people and studying [...]
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on 15b, V15, and Depression
Date: February 24th, 2016 About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first [...]
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker Talks Training for Alpine Routes
Date: February 16th, 2016 About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was [...]
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains The Ketogenic Diet
February 9th, 2016 Ketogenic Diet and Climbers I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and due to their media coverage of it, I expect that a lot of people will want [...]
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V13
Date: February 3rd, 2016 About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a [...]