The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder
Date: September 12th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: He was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming [...]
TBP 059 :: Access Fund on Going from Gym to Crag Responsibly
Date: August 30th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About The Access Fund The Access Fund is an organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open for climbers while keeping land owners happy with those climbers. Since 1981, the organization has been helping to end disputes between climbers and landowners [...]
Ask Kris 011 :: Online Training Vs In-Person Training
Date: July 15th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Online Training Vs In-Person Training for Climbing This week in our Ask Kris episode, we talked about the pros and cons of 3 different training types: In-person training with a coach one-on-one Online training with a coach one-on-one Online [...]
TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro
Date: July 11th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joe Kinder This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport's first professional (aka paid) athletes. He's climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he's given [...]
Ask Kris 010 :: Training on a Time Budget
Date: June 23rd, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page Training for Climbing on A Time Budget This week, in our tenth mini Ask Kris episode, we talked about how you can train at home or in the gym on a time budget. We talk about what boulderers should focus [...]
TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers
Date: June 28th, 2016 Google Play For Android Users iTunes Show Page About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including [...]
Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing
Date: June 23rd, 2016 Efficient Home Training for Climbing This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who [...]
TBP 056 :: Our Shoulder Surgeon (Dr. Tom Hackett) on Best Practices for Surgery and Alternative Treatments
Date: June 21st, 2016 About Dr. Tom Hackett This is an interview with Dr. Tom Hackett, a shoulder, elbow, and knee surgeon who performed all three of my husband's and my shoulder surgeries. Dr. Hackett works out of the acclaimed Steadman Clinic in Vail, Colorado, and has extensive training in arthroscopic treatment [...]
Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds
Date: June 16th, 2016 How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that [...]
TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)
Date: June 14th, 2016 About Lynn Hill This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free The Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was [...]
Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?
Date: June 9th, 2016 Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need. Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a [...]
TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training
Date: June 7th, 2016 About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend [...]
Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing
Date: May 26th, 2016 Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain [...]
TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training
Date: May 24th, 2016 About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in the Wyoming area. We dig in to what motivates him to find new routes and climb so hard, all while maintaining [...]
Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing
Date: May 16th, 2016 Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, [...]