The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine
Date: March 8th, 2017 About Madaleine Sorkin Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a living as a sponsored climber and as a climbing guide and clinic leader. She's currently [...]
TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier
Date: March 2nd, 2017 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master’s degree in Human Movement [...]
TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58
Date: February 13th, 2017 About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and [...]
TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau
Date: January 26th, 2017 About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a 41-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 15 years. He's a full-time 7th-grade teacher, so he has summers off with his wife Wendy, who's also a teacher. This affords [...]
TBP 071 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith on Elbow Pain
Date: January 6th, 2017 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her [...]
TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training
Date: December 22nd, 2016 About Josh Dreher Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would [...]
TBP 069 :: Jess Simmons on the Benefits of Yoga for Climbers
Date: December 12th, 2016 About Jess Simmons Jess Simmons is a Registered Yoga Teacher (200-RYT) and Personal Trainer (NASM CPT) on a quest to climb harder and healthier. She integrates the physical, mental, and spiritual practices of yoga with modern exercise science [...]
TBP 068 :: Alex Stiger on How Coaching Kids Made Her Stronger
Date: November 30th, 2016 ANNOUNCEMENT: Alex Stiger is now offering Performance Coaching for Climbers through TrainingBeta. Her services include a 75-minute video consultation or an 8-week training block. Learn all about it here. About Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a good friend [...]
TBP 067 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman on Breathing and Staying Calm
Date: November 15th, 2016 About Dr. Chris Heilman Dr. Christina Heilman is a Sport Psychologist, as well as a personal trainer (CSCS and ATC) who earned her PhD in Sport and Exercise Psychology from the University of Utah. She is an avid skier, [...]
TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders
Date: November 2nd, 2016 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical [...]
TBP 065 :: Beth Rodden on Big Walls and Being A Mom
Date: October 27th, 2016 About Beth Rodden Beth Rodden is a climbing icon and absolutely a hero of mine. She broke barriers for women in sport climbing and big wall climbing, being the first American woman to climb 5.14b, the first woman to [...]
TBP 064 :: Dan Mirsky on BD Bootcamp Success and Becoming A Trainer
Date: October 19th, 2016 About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I’ve been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs all over the country for the last 10 years. In 2013, we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were [...]
TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers’ Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research
Date: October 14th, 2016 About The Anderson Brothers For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over [...]
TBP 062 :: Colette McInerney’s BD Bootcamp Success
Date: October 7th, 2016 About Colette McInerney Colette McInerney is a 34-year-old climber who's been living on the road climbing for the past decade or so. She makes a living as a videographer and photographer all over the world. She's climbed up to 5.14a, and [...]
TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist’s Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care
Date: September 21st, 2016 About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. Since he started climbing as a kid, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen [...]