The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 083 :: Maureen Beck Climbs 5.11+ with One Hand
Date: August 3rd, 2017 About Maureen Beck Maureen (Mo) Beck is a 30-year-old climber from Maine who followed her passion for climbing to Colorado like so many of us have. She climbs 5.11+ and is working on her first 5.12-. She started [...]
TBP 082 :: Lee Sheftel on Climbing 5.13 into His 70’s
Date: July 6th, 2017 About Lee Sheftel Lee Sheftel is sort of a living legend in Rifle Park, known as the guy who's a little bit older who still climbs hard routes. He's 71 years old and he still climbs 5.13's regularly. He [...]
TBP 081 :: Skin Care for Climbers with Justin Brown of Rhino Skin Solutions
Date: June 9th, 2017 Justin Brown and Skin Care for Climbers Justin Brown is a climber of 20+ years who had skin issues. His hands were sweaty and he got split tips too often. He decided to start experimenting with skin care [...]
TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan
Date: June 1st, 2017 About Steve Bechtel Steve Bechtel is a well-known climbing trainer, and I've had him on the podcast 2 other times now (here and here). I think he'll just be a regular on the show because we all love listening [...]
Neely Quinn on The Power Company Podcast: Common Sense Nutrition
May 23rd, 2017 Power Company Podcast iTunes Page Neely Quinn on The Power Company Podcast I (Neely) recently taught nutrition at a climbing training seminar in Lander with Steve Bechtel, and Kris Hampton of The Power Company was one of the participants of the seminar. After the seminar, he kindly asked to [...]
TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send
Date: May 19th, 2017 About Daniel Woods Daniel Woods needs no introduction really, but in case you don't know who he is... he's super strong. He's climbed possibly 3 V16's, lots of V15's, 5.15a, and he's a 9-time US Bouldering National champion. He [...]
TBP 078 :: Natasha Barnes Tells Us The 4 Best Lifts for Climbers
Date: May 4th, 2017 About Natasha Barnes Natasha Barnes is a former competitive climber, a competitive power lifter, and a doctor of chiropractic with a specialty in rehabilitation of sports injuries. She lives in San Francisco, California and has a private practice [...]
TBP 077 :: The Best Supplements for Climbers with Shannon O’Grady
Date: April 24th, 2017 About Shannon O'Grady Shannon O’Grady is the Director of Product for Gnarly Nutrition. She has her doctorate in Biology from the University of Utah, and through research in nutritional physiology and her own obsession with sports nutrition, ended up [...]
TBP 076 :: Esther Smith on How to Heal Your Finger Injury
Date: About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, [...]
New Mini Podcast Series with Mercedes Pollmeier: Using Body Awareness in Climbing and Beyond
Date: April 7th, 2017 New Podcast Series with Mercedes! I've talked with Mercedes Pollmeier on the podcast a couple times now (#1 and #2), she wrote an article for us, and she's our in-house online personal trainer for TrainingBeta. So knowing how knowledgeable [...]
TBP 075 :: Madaleine Sorkin on Training for 5.13 Big Walls and Alpine
Date: March 8th, 2017 About Madaleine Sorkin Madaleine Sorkin is a 35-year-old climber originally from D.C., who's known for her alpine and big wall ascents. She makes a living as a sponsored climber and as a climbing guide and clinic leader. She's currently [...]
TBP 074 :: Climbing Training Success Stories with Mercedes Pollmeier
Date: March 2nd, 2017 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is my second interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, our in-house online climbing trainer here at TrainingBeta. She's a Strength and Conditioning coach out of the Seattle Bouldering Project. She has a Master’s degree in Human Movement [...]
TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58
Date: February 13th, 2017 About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and [...]
TBP 072 :: How Danny Robertson Broke A 10-Year Plateau
Date: January 26th, 2017 About Danny Robertson Danny Robertson is a 41-year-old climber out of Carbondale, Colorado who's been climbing for about 15 years. He's a full-time 7th-grade teacher, so he has summers off with his wife Wendy, who's also a teacher. This affords [...]
TBP 071 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith on Elbow Pain
Date: January 6th, 2017 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her [...]