This is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.

In this interview with researcher and climber, Dr. Roanne van Voorst, we talk about her new book, Fear. In it, she interviewed Alex Honnold, Hazel Findlay, and many other extreme athletes about how they cope with and move through fear.

In our second interview I talked with sport psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about her new book on sports performance. We discussed using imagery, setting realistic goals, performing under pressure, limiting beliefts, and staying motivated.

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common hip and knee issues in climbers and how to rehab them.

In this interview I talk with Matt Pincus about how he transitioned from bouldering to routes, and how he stayed strong through some serious injuries.

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.

Date: October 5th, 2017 About Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers at www.latticetraining.com, and I got to sit down with both of them to talk about the research they're doing for the sport of climbing. [...]

In this interview, I talk with climbing trainer, Charlie Manganiello about what it takes to train for - and perform well in - more than 1 sport at a time.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Adam Ondra about how he trained for his recent ascent of "Silence", the world's first 5.15d / 9c.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with professional climber Paige Claassen about how she trained for the trip we're currently on together in Flatanger, Norway.

In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common neck and back issues in climbers and how to rehab them.

In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.