The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.



TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Sending 9a, Training Endurance, and Being Vegan
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and how becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training – 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
Date: October 17th, 2018 About Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers and founders at www.latticetraining.com, and in this second interview with them, we talked about some training hacks for people who don't [...]
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fears and Setting Big Goals
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame fear of falling after an accident, and her dialed-in diet.
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with Matt Pincus about how you can't actually fit EVERYTHING into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
In this interview I talk with three-time consecutive U.S. Bouldering Nationals Champion, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains to be so successful.
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
In this interview I talk with competitive climber and performance coach, Tiffany Melius, about how she trains for World Cup events and the Olympics, and how she coaches people to perform better mentally.
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith – Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
In this interview I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common ankle and foot issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett Eating Disorders and Climbers
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.