The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fears and Setting Big Goals
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame fear of falling after an accident, and her dialed-in diet.
TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program
I talk with Matt Pincus about how you can't actually fit EVERYTHING into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.
TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing
In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.
TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps
In this interview I talk with three-time consecutive U.S. Bouldering Nationals Champion, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains to be so successful.
TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers
In this interview I talk with competitive climber and performance coach, Tiffany Melius, about how she trains for World Cup events and the Olympics, and how she coaches people to perform better mentally.
TBP 105 :: Esther Smith – Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers
In this interview I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common ankle and foot issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett Eating Disorders and Climbers
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries
In this interview, I talk with Alex Biale about how he has come back as a stronger climber after multiple ankle, finger, and other injuries, and how you can too.
TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie’s Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program
In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.
TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA’s, Her Weight, and Nutrition
In this interview, I talk with Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her, how her goals have changed over the years, and what significance she puts on FFA's.
TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should
In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.