The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 127: Sierra Blair-Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
TBP 125 :: Jonathan Siegrist on La Planta de Shiva and Our Experience in Spain
I talk with Jonathan a bit about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on 12a to 13a in 6 Months and Cultivating A Positive Attitude
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager and savage climber, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund – How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Setting Priorities & Attaining Goals
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your goals and figure out what actions you need to take to be successful.
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Trained to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury
In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.
TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Sending 9a, Training Endurance, and Being Vegan
In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and how becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.
TBP 114 :: Lattice Training – 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber
Date: October 17th, 2018 About Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers and founders at www.latticetraining.com, and in this second interview with them, we talked about some training hacks for people who don't [...]
TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.