The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 132: ClimbStrong’s Charlie and Alex – 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering the Old Fashioned Way
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal the most common tendon injuries in climbers using isometric exercises with heavy loads.
TBP 127: Sierra Blair-Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.
TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
TBP 125 :: Jonathan Siegrist on La Planta de Shiva and Our Experience in Spain
I talk with Jonathan a bit about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on 12a to 13a in 6 Months and Cultivating A Positive Attitude
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager and savage climber, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.
TBP 122 :: The Access Fund – How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better
In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.
TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Setting Priorities & Attaining Goals
In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your goals and figure out what actions you need to take to be successful.
TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Trained to Send Her First 5.12a
In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.
TBP 119: How Tom O’Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time
In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.
TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.