The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train at home during COVID-19. We discuss how we're training ourselves, recommended equipment, how to approach training at home, and some workouts you can do.
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
TBP 141: Dietitian Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses eating disorders, disordered eating, and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Climbing trainer Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses with her clients to improve climbing skills and strength.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
TBP 138: Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
I talk with Marina Inoue about overcoming her short stature through specific training, why she loves living in her van full-time, and some relatable body image issues.
TBP 137: Kris Hampton – 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.
TBP 136: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Is Coached by Matt Pincus
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
I talk with Rachel Briggs about how she has two young children and climbs harder now than she ever has. We talk about the physical, mental, and emotional struggles that mothers have, and how she's navigated those.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol, which uses no weights or pulleys, just isometric pulling on a hangboard.