The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 141: Dietitian Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses eating disorders, disordered eating, and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Climbing trainer Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses with her clients to improve climbing skills and strength.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
TBP 138: Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
I talk with Marina Inoue about overcoming her short stature through specific training, why she loves living in her van full-time, and some relatable body image issues.
TBP 137: Kris Hampton – 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.
TBP 136: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Is Coached by Matt Pincus
Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.
TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother
I talk with Rachel Briggs about how she has two young children and climbs harder now than she ever has. We talk about the physical, mental, and emotional struggles that mothers have, and how she's navigated those.
TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.
TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol, which uses no weights or pulleys, just isometric pulling on a hangboard.
TBP 132: ClimbStrong’s Charlie and Alex – 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make
I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.
TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering the Old Fashioned Way
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.
TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal the most common tendon injuries in climbers using isometric exercises with heavy loads.
TBP 127: Sierra Blair-Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.