The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfilment in your rock climbing.
You can find even more on all of these topics on our Patreon in the form of bonus episodes, recorded mindset and nutrition coaching sessions, uncut interviews, and nutrition and mindset advice.
TBP 279 :: Overcoming Fear of Climbing Above Bolt – A Mindset Coaching Session
I do a mindset coaching session with climber Nathaniel Lamont about his fear of lead climbing and falling above his bolt.
TBP 278 :: Francis Sanzaro on the Zen of Climbing
In this episode, Francis Sanzaro discusses his book, The Zen of Climbing, & how we can use Zen for performance anxiety, fear, and grief.
TBP 277: Climbing Sessions to Train Power Endurance, Endurance, and Strength
Coach Matt Pincus provides specific climbing drills you can use to train the different energy systems: power endurance, endurance, and strength/power, and the reasons behind them.
TBP 276 :: Ashley Hardy on Climbing 5.13c with No Gym, No Training, & a Full-Time Job
Ashley Hardy talks about how she gets outside climbing 3-4 days a week with a full-time job and how she's moved up the grades to 5.13c with no conventional training.
TBP 275 :: Fundamentals of Strength Training for Climbers
Coach Matt Pincus offers advice on how to incorporate strength training sessions into your routine, why you'd do that, and which exercises to do, whether you're a novice, intermediate, or elite climber.
TBP 274 :: Dr. Stacy Sims on Climbing Training and Nutrition for Aging Women
Dr. Stacy Sims talks about climbing training and nutrition for aging or menopausal women.
TBP 272 :: Charlie Schreiber Coaches Me on My Climbing and Training
Coach Charlie Schreiber does a coaching session with me to get the info he needs to create a training plan for me (links to plan included).
TBP 270 :: Sport Psychology Coach on How to Foster a Growth Mindset in Youth and Adult Climbers
Sport Psychology Coach Zoe Sayetta talks about mindset coaching for youth climbers and adults alike.
TBP 269 :: Ravioli Biceps on Moonboard Training and Mindset
Moonboard phenom Ravioli Biceps talks about his approach to Moonboarding, how he trains around a busy work schedule, and why he loves it so much.
TBP 268 :: From Overtraining to Finding Discipline in Efficiency – Coach Charlie Schreiber
Climbing coach Charlie Schreiber talks about how you can train efficiently rather than overtraining in order to get more out of your sessions.
TBP 267 :: Why Your Gym Training Isn’t Translating to Outdoor Climbing – Coach Karly Rager
Climbing coach Karly Rager discusses the reasons climbing in the gym often doesn't prepare you for outdoor climbing, and what to do about it.
TBP 266 :: Negative Body Image Mindset Coaching Session with a Climber
I do a mindset coaching session with Climber Robynne Murray about her negative body image to find tools to have less shame about her body.
TBP 265 :: Jesse Grupper on Comp Climbing, Training, and His Positive Mindset
World cup competitor, Olympian, and sport climbing phenom Jesse Grupper details his training, his positive mindset tactics, and how he's dealing with a finger injury.
TBP 264 :: Coaching Session to Help a Climber Send His 1st 5.13a (7c+)
Climbing coach Matt Pincus does a coaching session with Kyle Smith to help him reach his goal of sending his first 5.13a (7c+).
TBP 263 :: From 5.13 Big Walls to 5.14c Sport – Bronwyn Hodgins’ Training
Pro climber Bronwyn Hodgins talks about her training and mindset that took her from 5.13 big walls and one 5.14a sport climb to 5.14c in just one year.