If you follow this blog, then you’ve definitely noticed that we believe finger strength training on a hangboard is one of the foundations of training for climbing.  While we do our best to provide you with information on different effective ways to fingerboard, we know that it can be easy to get lost in the details of number of grips, sets, weights, rests times, ect.

We know these details may seem like trivial minutia.  However, they are actually really important and can be the difference between walking away from a training cycle with some serious gains and wasting your time or worse getting injured.

So with the goal of making hangboarding simpler and easier to understand, here’s a video from EpicTV and climbing trainer and coach Eric Hörst all about finger strength training and how to do it safely and effectively.

“In a brand new training series from EpicTV, climbing coach and author Eric Horst talks us through the steps needed to become an all round better climber. First off: finger strength.” – EpicTV

Finger Strength Video:

Watch the full video below for a great and easy to follow introduction to fingerboard training:

The video itself covers:

1. The reasons improving finger strength matters
2. Two effective finger training protocols
3. Four fingerboard injury prevention tips

If you are new to fingerboard training this video is a great place to start.  However, even if you have been training on a hangboard for years, this video may show you some new fingerboard protocols to help you take your finger strength to the next level.  Watch the video above or click through below for the original.  Also, EpicTV and Hörst will be putting out several more training videos on various topics in the next few months so be sure to keep and eye out for those.

Original Video: Training For Climbing – Finger Strength Video

(video still courtesy of epictv.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Eric Hörst – 4 Fingerboard Strength Protocols
• Research on Grip Strength Training
• Eva Lopez Finger Strength Training
• How I Came Back Stronger After A Finger Injury