Improving finger strength can be one of the best ways to get stronger quickly. With so many different exercises out there though, it can be hard to know what to focus on.

In this article  by Eric Hörst, from nicros.com, he shares what he considers to be the top 5 finger strength training exercises.

Eric talks about bouldering:

“…bouldering should be a staple of your training program. It builds functional strength while at the same time developing mental and technical skills. Consequently, it’s a good training strategy to couple bouldering with one of the other finger-strength-training exercises on this top 5 list.”  

He goes over fingerboard repeaters:

The fingerboard is a staple training tool that every serious climber should own. While the large bucket holds on the board can be used for pull-up training, the genius of a good fingerboard is the multitude of finger positions and grips that it enables you to train.”

Then Eric suggests Hypergravity bouldering:

Advanced climbers with several years of bouldering under their belt eventually reach a point where they no longer achieve significant gains in finger strength despite regular, hard bouldering. Fortunately, hypergravity bouldering and the HIT workout are powerful training strategies that will yield further gains in high-end finger strength.”

Next, feet-on lunging exercises:

Feet-on lunging exercises are a form of reactive training, which trains the nervous system to recruit muscle motor units more quickly.”

And finally, campus training:

campus training is elite method for develop raw power and contact strength.”

Not sure what hypergravity bouldering or feet-on lunges are? Or how to do fingerboard repeaters or use the campus board? Eric Horst does a great job of getting into the specifics and following up with exactly how to do each of these finger strength training exercises….

CLICK HERE: Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises 

(photo courtesy of nicros.com)

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