One thing that has been scientifically proven is that improved finger strength correlates directly to improved climbing performance.  With our current understanding of how to train for rock climbing just barely entering the scientific arena, having such a direct correlation definitely proven is a big deal.

It should come as no surprise then that hangboard routine after hangboard routine are popping up across the climbing community all promising the most efficient path to stronger fingers.  With all of these programs out there, it can be very easy to get bogged down in the minutia of sets, reps, number of grips, time under tension, ect.  The good news is if you pick a program and stick to it, it will make your fingers stronger.

However, finger strength is not something that is gained overnight.  In fact, our tendons adapt and gain strength much slow than our muscles.  As a result, climbers should be focused on hangboarding for the longterm gains.  Coach and trainer Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong advocates this macro approach in his article where he urges us to focus less on the specifics of each individual session and more on the volume of training, both in the session and across each week, and how that fits into our training program for the year.

“I get several emails a day about training. Three or more times a week, I get a question along the lines of “Which hangboard protocol is the best?” This is a novice question, as there are very few bad training programs that stay around for long. Also, to think that one session template is somehow “the best” is comparable to asking “What is the best dinner recipe?” The truth is that training adaptations work in long waves: it takes 4-8 weeks to see a significant strength benefit from most programs, and after that time, they cease to provide. At this point, it’s time to switch up to the next level of training.” – Steve Bechtel

Hangboarding for the Longterm:

If we accept that Steve’s position on hangboarding for the longterm is right, (which we all should) then the question we should all be asking is not exactly what we should be doing on a hangboard during our next workout, but how we should be adjusting the volume and intensity of hangboarding depending on what phase of our training program we are in.

Here are Steve’s suggestions for the number of sessions we should be doing each week depending on whether it is the off season, pre-season, or in-season:

Again, this article is not going to give you a new protocol for your next workout and that is exactly the point.  Steve want us to look at the big picture, focus on continuous improvement, and commit to hangboarding for the longterm gains rather than just expecting that there is a magical protocol out there that will produce immediate results.

Click through below to learn more about this hangboarding philosophy.  Let’s all be honest, hangboarding isn’t the most fun part of rock climbing.   So if we are going to spend our time fingerboarding, we should be doing it in a way that is most productive for our climbing progression in the longterm.

New Finger Training Programs:

If you are looking to take the guess work out of hangboarding all together, check out the new TrainingBeta Finger Strength Training Programs.  As we just learned, hangboarding is less about what you do in each individual session and more about how you progress your training over time.

The beginner, intermediate, and advanced programs take care of that for you with step by step instructions about how to adjust the training load and a periodized approach across each 5 week program.  Read more about them HERE and then give one a shot.  They will make your fingers stronger!

Full Article: Steve Bechtel – Hangboarding for the Longterm (link no longer available) 

(photo courtesy of climbstrong.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Eric Hörst Intro to Fingerboard Training
• New Finger Training Programs!
• Research on Grip Strength Training
• Hangboard Ladders with Steve Bechtel