When it comes to training for routes, most people think that endurance and power endurance are the most important facets to train.  However, while they are certainly important, strength is the basis of hard climbing.  As Tony Yaniro famously said, “If you can’t do the moves, then there’s nothing to endure.”

To really highlight how important this principle is, here’s a sample workout from our Route Climbing Training Program.  This workout is the first workout of Week 4 and is part of a power endurance bloc.  However, as you’ll see, the focus of this workout isn’t on power endurance, but on finger strength.

The idea behind this philosophy is that by raising your overall strength moves will require a lower percentage of your maximum strength and power.  This means that harder sections of climbing won’t put you in the red zone as quickly.

Give the workout a shot and see what you think.  There’s even some shoulder injury prevention work to make sure that all your hard training work doesn’t go to waste while your sidelined by an injury.

Route Climbing Training: Finger Strength Workout

Route Climbing Training Program:

If you like what you saw above and are ready to take your route climbing to the next level, be sure to check out the full program.  Here are the basics:

“The Training Program for Route Climbers is your roadmap to gaining more strength and endurance on routes. It’s all laid out for you by a climbing trainer so you don’t have to plan anything. The workouts and drills are scalable to any level of difficulty, so it’ll help no matter how hard you currently climb.”

Check out the full program for yourself by clicking through below!

However, if this program does sound like the right fit for you, we offer a variety of programs that train everything from endurance to finger strength.  Check them all out here: Climbing Training Programs.

Full Program: Route Climbing Training Program

(photo courtesy of Edwin Teran | @edwinteran)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14
• Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
• How to Train for Steep Sport Routes
• Applying Hangboard Training to Rock Climbing