Building a Better Climber Part 4: Power Endurance

“Power endurance is the type of fitness required for sustained sequences of between 15 and 40 moves and will be the main focus of the phase, although I’ve included a small amount of strength work to prevent performance losses.” -Neil Gresham

This is Part 4 of the yearlong “Building a Better Climber” training program found on rockandice.com.  It is a power endurance phase designed to help make you feel stronger doing a lot of moves in a row.

The article includes fully detailed plans for the training sessions. It starts with four different structure options: two for the lead wall and two for the bouldering wall.

For example, on the bouldering wall:

“Option 1: 4 x 6s Select four different boulder problems of approximately the same grade that you can climb consecutively. The grade should be approximatelyone below the level that you can flash . Move between problems as quickly as possible. 

Rest for eight minutes and attempt the series six times.

Aim to complete the first four sets and to fail on the fifth or sixth set. If you start training and realize that the problems are too hard or too easy, then adjust accordingly. Make the sessions slightly harder by gradually adding harder problems.”

Then the article moves into the strength/power portion of this training phase.

For instance:

“4. 90-degree lock-offs (on bar or hangboard jugs) Four sets, aiming to reach failure before eight seconds.“

To wrap up their power endurance focused training article they include the conditioning and flexibility exercises/stretches they recommend as well as an antagonists and core session.

Keep your training going and improve your power endurance!

CLICK HERE: Building a Better Climber Part 4: Power Endurance

(photo courtesy of rockandice.com)