Believing in the importance of resting as part of your climbing training can be really hard….
“The crux issue in training for any sport is how to balance the amount of hard training with an appropriate amount of recovery. Too much rest means that you’re not training enough to reach your peak level, but too little will also inhibit performance as a result of excessive fatigue.” -Neil Gresham
There are three key stages associated with the recovery process: functional over-reaching, non-functional over-reaching, and over-training. This article from rockandice.com goes into the stages of recovery and how to make sense of them.
It talks about how in hard training, the muscles are traumatized or mildly strained and because of this, steps need to be taken to help with replenishment and repair….
“Remember, the goal is not just to allow these systems to return to their original pre-training status, but to progress to a new and higher level of performance capability, a process known as super-compensation.”
Next, this article discusses recovering from strength training, recovering from endurance training, and then recovering from both. It talks about the importance of nutrition for recovery, lifestyle (sleep patterns, stress at work, etc), hydrotherapy, electrostimulation, and active recovery.
And to wrap up the article:
“To conclude, in order to get the best possible recovery process, it is vital to plan your training carefully, as well as to consider all the tips given in this article for speeding up the process. Above all else, you must let your body be the guide. If you don’t go into the next week of training feeling fresh, optimistic and energized then you may be verging on over-training. It is better to err on the side of caution and to recover too well than to risk the burn out or injury so often a consequence of poor and insufficient recovery.”
For those of you who have a hard time believing in the importance of rest and recovery, this article is for you….
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