While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing in the last few years, most of what climbers base their training programs off of is anecdotal evidence that has not been definitely proven by scientific studies.  While ultimately this doesn’t matter as long as the training is producing actual climbing gains, it is important to note that this is different from most main stream sports where lots of research has been done about how to maximize gains and training efficiency.

However, while this lack of scientific research about climbing is still true, it is starting to change especially with research about training grip strength.  To summarize some of the major studies being done on grip strength training protocols, here’s an article by climbing trainer Eric Hörst in which he outlines the three of the major studies that have been done and their findings.

Grip Strength Training Studies Summarized:

The three studies Hörst covers are:

1. Correlation between Relative Peak Finger Force, Isometric Finger Force, & Rate of Finger Force Development and Climbing Performance – (V. Veredie, J. Kalland, A.K. Solbraa, V. Anderson, A.H. Saeterbakken – Sogn og Fjordane University, Norway)
2. Finger Strength Improvements with the Rock Prodigy Training Center (RPTC) Hangboard – (Michael L. Anderson & Mark L. Anderson)
3. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximum Finger Strength in Rock Climbers – (E. López-Rivera – Pablo de Olivine University, Seville, Spain)
   

Click through below to read more about these three studies in greater detail.  Ultimately, their findings may not be revolutionary for your training, but they represent the cutting edge in our understanding of how to most effectively train finger strength for climbing.  Here’s how Hörst summarizes the findings of all three studies:

“While not appropriate for a novice climber, regular hangboard training is a valid strategy for increasing finger strength and improving performance among intermediate and advanced climbers. Popular “Repeater” training protocols with sub-maximal weight will yield significant quantitative and qualitative gains…and may be optimal for training strength-endurance (aka “resistance”). The results of these studies suggest that the low-volume maximum-weight hangboard protocol is most effective at increasing finger flexor strength and positively influencing relative peak finger force and maximum relatively isometric strength.” – Eric Hörst

Like we said above, we all knew anecdotally that hangboard training was great for improving finger strength, but it’s certainly nice to know that all the hours we spend fingerboarding have been backed up by science.

Full Article: Research on Grip Strength Training Protocols

(photo courtesy of trainingforclimbing.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Eric Hörst – 4 Fingerboard Strength Protocols
• TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers’ Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research
• Eva Lopez Finger Strength Training
• 6 Tips to Make A Hangboard Session More Tolerable