I just discovered Rannveig Aamodt, a Norwegian pro climber who recovered from a terrible (TERRIBLE) spine, leg, pelvis, and arm-breaking fall in 2012 and is now climbing just as hard or harder than she was pre-accident. She wrote this article called “Optimized Breathing Tactics – to improve your climbing or bouldering” about the breathing tactics Justen Sjong taught her to use, depending on what kind of climbing she’s doing (easy, hard, really hard, etc).
This girl is special – check her site out if you have a couple free moments. She’s written about fear and other non-strength training climbing topics – things she likely knows a lot about.
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