Rock and Ice – Heel Hook Exercises
When used properly, a heel hook is a great technique for using your legs to take some weight off your hands. Solid heel hooks can make even the worst hand holds usable as they can take the majority of your [...]
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Training with an Injury
In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Pulley Injuries Explained Part II
Pulley injuries happen. It's unfortunate, but somewhat unavoidable if you climb for long enough. Not too long ago we shared an article from Dr. Jared Vagys website, The Climbing Doctor, by Doctor of Physical Therapy Matt DeStefano. In this first [...]
TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes
In this interview I talk with Matt Pincus about how he transitioned from bouldering to routes, and how he stayed strong through some serious injuries.
Hang Right – Part 3: Healing Nagging Finger Injuries
Finger tweaks: if you climb long enough, you've almost definitely had one. Let's face it. Injuring a finger sucks when it happens, but it sucks, even more, when months down the line you are still dealing with the same nagging [...]
Top 5 Injury Prevention Articles
Rock climbing and training for climbing is hard on our bodies. An unfortunate fact is that if you do it long enough chances are you are going to get injured. However, another fact is that through effective injury prevention work [...]
TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us
Date: October 5th, 2017 About Tom Randall and Ollie Torr Tom Randall and Ollie Torr are the head trainers at www.latticetraining.com, and I got to sit down with both of them to talk [...]
TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports
In this interview, I talk with climbing trainer, Charlie Manganiello about what it takes to train for - and perform well in - more than 1 sport at a time.
Avoiding Injuries on Pockets – The Climbing Doctor
For many climbers, even looking at a photo of a small two-finger pocket or a mono makes their fingers hurt. It's also true that pockets put a lot of strain on our tendons and the other connective structures in our [...]
TBP 084 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
In this interview, I talk with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the science of training, how to rehab finger injuries, and what blood flow restriction training is.