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With training, it's easy to get obsessed with the idea of perfect. We all want to know what the perfect hangboard protocol is, what the perfect periodization scheme is, or what perfect set of supplemental exercises will let us reach [...]
Injuries suck. Not only do they prevent us from climbing in the short term, but they de-rail long term progress by forcing us to spend seasons on the couch rather than at the crag becoming better and stronger climbers. It's [...]
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
Because of the increase in shoulder injuries, climbers are really concerned with shoulder injury prevention. To give you some ideas about how to incorporate shoulder stability work into your training, here's an article from Moon Climbing where British climber Olivia [...]
In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.
Climbing injury rates are on the rise. If you climb long enough, chances are you're going to deal with an injury at some point. However, this doesn't mean we should just be sitting back waiting for injuries to happen. Most [...]
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent rotator cuff strains and neck strain.
We all know that climbing helps us get strong over time. It would be nice to think that strength develops evenly. However, due to old injuries, incorrect form when training, uneven movement patterns, and the nature of our sport, we [...]
In this interview, I talk with Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her, how her goals have changed over the years, and what significance she puts on FFA's.