One thing we’ve been missing from our arsenal of training tools has been a clear, concise training program for JUST training finger strength. While our other programs have finger training in them, we needed something that was more focused.

If you have ever searched the internet for a good fingerboard program, then you know how many different workouts there are.  It’s very easy to get lost in the minutia for how long to hang, how many sets/reps, how much rest, and how many grips to train.

To simplify things and give you an easy to follow schedule, Kris Peters created 3 separate finger training programs for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers.

About The Programs

All of the programs feature:

• 2 unique finger workouts per week (3 in the advanced)
• 5 weeks of training
• Logbook to track progress
• Core workouts
• Ebook (PDF) to use on any device

Who Should Do The Programs

• The Beginner Program is for V3-V5 / 5.11a-11c climbers. A pulley system is allowed in this program if necessary, and you won’t be using any smaller than a full finger pad edge in the program. This is where you should start if you’ve never trained fingers before, even if you climb a bit harder than the grades I mentioned.
• The Intermediate Program is for V5-V7 / 5.11d-12c climbers. You should be able to hang for 10 seconds repeatedly on a half-pad edge without taking weight off with a pulley system. There are some extra exercises in this program for strengthening wrists, forearms, and shoulders, as well.
• The Advanced Program is for V8+ / 5.12d+ climbers. You should be able to hang for 10 seconds repeatedly on a half to quarter pad edge with weight added to your body in order to do this program. You will be training one-arm hangs with a pulley system (if necessary), and there are extra exercises for strengthening wrists, forearms, and shoulders.

Each program includes a logbook that’s created especially for that program, as well as 3 supplemental core workouts that will kick your butt after your finger workouts.

Sample Workout from Beginner Program

Here’s a sample of what one of the workouts looks like so you can get a sense of what you’re getting yourself into.

I hope these programs help fill the finger training void for you! I know they’ll make your fingers stronger, which will make those little holds way easier to hang on to.  Finger strength is at the core of hard climbing.  These programs will help you put in the hard work to make some serious gains!