Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Dr. Tyler Nelson owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a sports medicine and strength & conditioning clinic in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online at Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
In this episode, Tyler talks about some advancements in training finger endurance that he’s discovered with his patients and in the research. He describes in detail how we can be more efficient with our finger training to get the most out of our sessions.
More Details
- Continuation of our last episode on finger endurance
- Difference between passive and active grip in finger training
- What a protocol using this new info looks like
- Research backing it up
- His thoughts on the no-hang protocol
- Why he sees pulley cysts all the time in his injured patients
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Tyler was kind enough to provide us with 5 videos from his upcoming course on Upper Extremity Testing for the TrainingBeta Patreon page. In these videos, he clearly demonstrates how to do these 5 tests on your fingers using a Tindeq:
- 5-second Hang
- Aerobic Capacity
- Anaerobic Capacity
- Anaerobic Power
- Finger Max Curl Test
Watch those videos and all the other podcast bonuses by signing up for a free 7-day trial on Patreon.
Episode Links
- Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Get a Tindeq to test your fingers
- Do a consultation with Tyler
- Instagram: @c4hp
Other Episodes with Tyler
- TBP 239 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training Finger Endurance
- TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
- TBP 212: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
- TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Injuries in Youth Climbers
- TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
- TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
- TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
- TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
- TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
- TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
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