Shaina Savoy and Neely Quinn Answer Nutrition Questions from Climbers

Shaina Savoy is a 30-year-old climber who lives in Las Vegas who also happens to be a very good friend of mine AND TrainingBeta’s social media manager. I’ve known her for years, and have watched her evolve into an amazingly strong 5.13+ climber who has a strong passion for nutrition. She recently finished a program at NTI to become a Nutrition Therapist Master and is now seeing nutrition clients.

Shaina and I sat down and answered a bunch of questions we received from our Instagram audience about nutrition for climbers. I’m an Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist and have been seeing nutrition clients since 2007. I’ve been working almost exclusively with climbers on their nutrition since 2013.

Questions We Answered

• Some general indications for water consumption?
• What is the best advice that climbing coaches can give youth athletes?
• When to diet & drop fat?
• Plant based nutrition for climbing
• Supplements!
• Favorite crag candy
• Is it common to be more injury prone when dieting?
• Nutrition tips for waking up in the middle of the night
• Nutrition for aging climbers and injury prevention
• Most accurate way to determine daily caloric needs?
• Thoughts on sugar, specifically foods with added sugar?
• Advice for people with history of disordered eating who want to be lean
• Bonus Content on Patreon

There’s some bonus content at the end of this episode about exactly what we eat from morning til bedtime on a crag day. We also discuss the differences between plant-based and animal-based protein powders. You can find that bonus content and the uncut, ad-free episode without intro or outro on my Patreon page.

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You can find bonus content from this episode, as well as nutrition and mindset education on Patreon. Learn more about my guests, plus get practical video tips on how to feed yourself to climb your hardest, and how to make climbing as fulfilling and productive as possible.

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