How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it.
We both share our experiences of our first 5.13’s, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how to stay focused and calm enough to not overgrip and get super pumped.
We also talk about resting tactics, and how important it is to be able to rest on hard routes, whether it’s on the route, between burns, or the days leading up to getting on your project. Alex even shares some resting drills to use to practice at the gym.
We discuss how your training needs to change from generalized strength and technique to more route-specific technique and strength building. And how to do that in the gym.
I talk a little bit about proper nutrition on projecting days (and the days leading up to them) and Alex shares her story of how I helped her tweak her diet to make her projecting days more productive.
We also discuss advanced techniques like heel hooks and knee bars, as well as some mental tricks for avoiding overwhelm on big projects.
I loved this conversation with Alex, and whether you’re breaking into 5.12+, 13- or 5.13, the tips in here should help you.
Episode Details
- Our first 5.13a’s and how hard they felt for us, mentally and physically
- Our processes for projecting hard things
- How to turn the try-hard switch on and off on routes
- Resting tactics and drills
- Why skipping clips is not always the answer to being pumped
- Transitioning from general training to specific technique building
- Nutrition for big projects
- Avoiding overwhelm on a daunting project
- How many tries is too many tries
- Why it’s ok to not get to the top on your first tries
Show Links
- Work with Alex as your coach
- Join Alex’s next Team Program
- Work on your nutrition with Neely
- Have questions? Email alex@trainingbeta.com or neely@trainingbeta.com
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Neely, great episode with lots of useful projecting tips. I think a couple episodes back you or your guest mentioned that climbers at lower grades tend to think they have to go ground up on routes. And you said that projecting wasn’t only for top level climbers or pro’s. And this episode gives great suggestions for doing the projecting work dialing in each move and working on rest positions etc. As someone just getting into the 10s outside and 11s in the gym there are often lines at the crag with people waiting to get on these more moderate climbs. Other than only climbing midweek or at less popular crags, what do you suggest for projecting say mid 10s. without annoying everyone waiting to climb? Is it reasonable to spend a couple/few hours on one route?
I know that the tips for getting to 13a can be applied at lower grades, but in general I’d love to hear from some more climbers who are working at the less lofty heights (of the13/14/15s) as those grades do seem unattainable at present. For example what are best strategies in the first few years of climbing. This coming from an over 50 climber who has been climbing 3 – 1/2 years. Thanks!