I’m a seasoned climber and coach who will work with you to help you reach your climbing goals. When you purchase a block of coaching with me, you will receive a personalized, principle-based training plan based on your goals, your abilities, the equipment you have, and any limitations you have with time or injuries.
I’m not just a trainer though. I’m a coach. This means I’ll stay in regular contact with you as you work through the program no matter where you are in the world. This means you’ll have support as questions arise, you need your training progressed or regressed, or your schedule changes.
As your coach, I’ll not only help you get stronger but I will also teach you about the efficient tactics needed to translate the progress you make in your training into more sends.
When We Work Together…
We start with an in-depth discussion to help you clarify and define your climbing goals. You draw out a road map if you don’t know where you want to go!
We measure success based on whether or not you are reaching your goals. This means we start with your goals and work backward from them to design a program that will actually help you reach them.
This means there’s no training (on the wall or supplemental) that we include because it’s what you “should” be doing.
Having the guidance of a qualified coach will give you the confidence that you are investing your TIME and EFFORT into the training that will move you towards your goals.
- We start with the time you have available to train and climb. A successful training program doesn’t have to be all-consuming and should fit into your life.
- We are realistic in the planning stage to ensure that it does and you aren’t stuck in the demotivating cycle of never completing a program.
- We provide ongoing tactical support during performance phases to help ensure that you can translate the hard work you did into training into more sends.
Frequently Asked Questions
If you have other questions, please email Matt at matt@trainingbeta.com or call us at (650) 731-5615.
Pricing Options
4 Weeks
- Most Popular
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- 4-week Training Plan
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
12 Weeks
- Save $45
- 90-min Initial Skype Call/month
- Three 4-week Training Plans
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
Subscription
- Save $10/mo
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- Continuous Training Plans
- Monthly Zoom Check-ins
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Cancel Anytime
Hour Consult
- Quick Consult
- 60-min Video Consult
- Help with Building a Plan
- Advice on Projecting Tactics
- Climbing Video Analysis
- Strength Training Advice
*The Subscription option is recommended for existing clients who know they want to continue working with Matt. There is a 2-month minimum commitment for this option. If you’re a first-time client, we recommend the 4-Week option to see if this is the right fit for you.
About Your Coach, Matt Pincus
I am a passionate boulderer and a sport climber who lives in Lander, Wyoming, and often travels all over the world in an effort to climb harder and harder routes and boulders. So far I’ve climbed up to 5.14b and V12, but am constantly pursuing improving my climbing. I love the process of setting lofty goals and doing everything in my power to work towards them. I started coaching 8 years ago because I wanted to share what I have learned over nearly 20 years of climbing and training experience with others.
To hone my craft as a climber and a coach, I’ve studied the art of training for climbing for years, reading dozens of books on climbing training, general strength training, mindset, and coaching. I’ve attended two Performance Climbing Coach seminars, a BFR Certification Course, and continue to pursue various other continuing education programs to further hone my skills as a coach. Beyond providing guidance about strength training and skills development, I am really passionate about teaching the climbers I work with about the redpointing tactics and other crag/gym behavior changes that lead to quicker sends and allow climbers to fully express their physical abilities.
I’m ready to meet you where you are at and give you all the support you need to work towards your climbing goals.
Testimonials
I sent my first V12…
I signed up with Matt 6 weeks out from a trip to the USA to try and send my first V12, ‘Wet Dream’ in Red Rocks, Las Vegas. After our initial consultation, Matt did an awesome job of restructured my training schedule to target specific areas, while working around my somewhat limited facilities and 50+ hr work weeks.
I really appreciated his analytical approach and solid justifications for the workouts, and after the 6-week phase I’ve no doubt that I was in the best shape of my life. Three weeks later, late in the day on my last day of the trip, I managed to link all the moves, and top out the boulder. So psyched to have achieved a long-term goal, and to start the next round of training! Cheers Matt!
– Lans Hansen, Boulderer from New Zealand
Went from 5.12- to 5.13-…
Before I started working with Matt I was a climber stuck in a plateau. I had tried various training regiments and fads with mixed results. I could never stick to a program, self-made or otherwise, that built me into a better climber. I was fed up with falling off the same climbs and the same grades.
Shortly after starting with Matt, he immediately identified a serious weakness in my technique. He introduced new climbing drills and tailored the training to not only hit my goals but to fundamentally improve my skills as a climber. In the short time I’ve been with Matt, I went from 5.12- to 5.13-. For me, the numbers are meaningless. Far more importantly, Matt has given me a framework for continual improvement and enjoyment of this activity we love so much.
– Said Parirokh, Southern California boulderer and sport climber
photo by @climbak15
Hit my goal of 5.12…
I started training with Matt about a year ago when I began to run into trouble matching my 80+ hour work schedule with climbing. I shared with him my goals of climbing v8 and 5.12 and he assured me I could get there even with my time restrictions. For the last year, he has been available whenever I’ve needed and happily adjusted my workouts to keep them exciting, efficient and fitting into my ever-changing schedule. I’ve recently hit my goal of 5.12 and know that v8 is not far behind.
– Sarah Marschall, medical resident climber with limited free time
From projecting v6 and 12a to onsighting v6 and 12b…
Having followed several self-guided training routines over the past 4-5 years, I had seen some results but didn’t have the support structure I needed to simultaneously address the mental, technique, and strength improvements needed to make sustained progress. Without a good in-person coaching option in the San Francisco Bay Area, I turned to Matt to try something new. Through our 18+ months of working together, we’ve been able to talk regularly about training approach and workout specifics, optimizing the dials to make the most use of my time in the gym and focus on the power development and projecting tactics that have shored up my patience, confidence, and performance abilities. In the gym, I’ve been able to improve from projecting v6 and 12a to onsighting v6 and 12b, and getting some regular v7 and 12c sends.
Outside on my summer trips, I’ve moved from 11a projecting to solid 11a trad onsights and my first 11b PG13+ redpoints. In the same timeframe, I’ve upped my sport climbing results from three 12a’s in two years to twenty 12a’s in the next year and added a good handful of 12b redpoints too. Matt has a great understanding of when to challenge and when to commiserate with his clients, and I’m confident nearly anyone will see great gains working with him while putting in honest efforts and communicating their ideas and reflections!
– Jason Albino, dedicated sport and trad climber
Always has a reason behind the plan…
When I started working with Matt I had been climbing at the 5.11- range for a bit, but couldn’t quite move past it. I was still being held back mentally on harder sport climbs and was hesitant to try harder routes. Shortly after we started working together I sent my first 5.11c in a few tries over a very short trip and went on to send a few 5.11+’s shortly after. Later that year I sent my first 5.12 and then a few more since. Over the time we have been working together, Matt has been very responsive and has always been available to answer any questions I may have. I like that he always has a reason behind the plans, he is willing to listen to my concerns, and that he takes a long view approach to training and climbing. I always get something out of our conversations, be it about training, tactics, and even logistics around climbing trips.
Beyond the physical aspect of training, working with Matt has really helped me develop a toolbox to tackle the mental challenges of trying hard on the sharp end, from fear of committing on hard moves, all the way to dealing with the frustration that sometimes comes in the later stages of working something at your limit.
–Ruben Duque, Sport Climber from Seattle
Pricing Options
4 Weeks
- Most Popular
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- 4-week Training Plan
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
12 Weeks
- Save $45
- 90-min Initial Skype Call/month
- Three 4-week Training Plans
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
Subscription
- Save $10/mo
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- Continuous Training Plans
- Monthly Zoom Check-ins
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Cancel Anytime
Hour Consult
- Quick Consult
- 60-min Video Consult
- Help with Building a Plan
- Advice on Projecting Tactics
- Climbing Video Analysis
- Strength Training Advice
Have questions? Email Matt at matt@trainingbeta.com or call us at (650) 731-5615.
Podcast Episodes with Matt
Matt discusses how he approaches training people online, as well as his own climbing and training.
- How he transitioned from boulderer to route climber
- How he stayed strong through finger and leg injuries
- Why he thinks a personal trainer can benefit every climber
- An example of one of his clients’ training programs
Matt discusses his article called “Comparing HangBoard Protocols.”
- Basic breakdown of the most popular protocols out there
- Which protocol to follow based on your goals
- What you should focus on with a protocol
- What he recommends for almost all of his clients
- 3 main takeaways
Matt discusses his article called “Fitting Everything into Your Training.”
- Why you can’t actually fit everything into your program
- The 3 things to prioritize when you’re training
- Why skills training is so important at any level
- Which strength exercises to choose
Most Popular Articles by Matt
Quality, Not Quantity?
I love climbing, I love training, and I love trying hard. If you are anything like me, you probably feel the same way and want to do as much climbing as possible. Unfortunately, actually improving [...]
Developing Climbing Skills Beyond Drills
Hi Everyone, Coach Matt Pincus here. As a coach, I work with climbers who want clear guidance about exactly what to do in all of their indoor and outdoor sessions in order to reach their [...]
Reexamining Major Jumps in Climbing Performance: Success Leaves Tracks
My winter hasn’t exactly gone according to plan. I went down to Hueco in early January to escape the depths of Wyoming winter and get a strength and power dose on some of my favorite [...]
What to Invest in for Climbing Training: Matt Pincus
Recently, I wrote to the TrainingBeta email subscribers about how I was changing up my training for the winter and how switching back to bouldering for a bit during the late fall had reinvigorated my [...]
4 Weeks
- Most Popular
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- 4-week Training Plan
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
12 Weeks
- Save $45
- 90-min Initial Skype Call/month
- Three 4-week Training Plans
- One-Time Payment
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Uses TrueCoach App
Subscription
- Save $10/mo
- 90-min Initial Skype Call
- Continuous Training Plans
- Monthly Zoom Check-ins
- Constant Coaching from Matt
- Cancel Anytime
Hour Consult
- Quick Consult
- 60-min Video Consult
- Help with Building a Plan
- Advice on Projecting Tactics
- Climbing Video Analysis
- Strength Training Advice
Have questions? Email Matt at matt@trainingbeta.com or call us at (650) 731-5615.
Bouldering Training Subscription Program by Matt Pincus
If you aren’t ready to make the financial commitment to do Remote Coaching with Matt, he created a more accessible subscription training program just for boulderers. He uses the same methods in that program as he does with his personal coaching clients, and there are 3 levels of training to choose from, depending on your training experience. If you are looking to learn from Matt but aren’t quite ready to commit to remote coaching, this is a great option.