Congrats on starting your bouldering training program – woohoo!!
We created this program with your trainer, Kris Peters, to help you reach your climbing goals, and we’ve tried to make it as easy for you to do that as possible. This page will explain how to use your dashboard and what everything on it means. If you have any questions after reading this page, check out the Bouldering Training Program FAQ page, and if that still doesn’t answer your questions, email us at support@trainingbeta.com. We’re here for you!
Here are the basics of this program:
6-Week Cyclical Phases
Throughout the ongoing program, you’ll cycle through different 6-week training phases. Your body is good at adapting to a certain work load, but it’s only good at improving in one area at a time. You’ll cycle through all the necessary parts of training for bouldering, with a week’s rest in between each phase so that your body can adapt to all of the training. You’ll start with a power endurance phase (because boulderers often lack the ability to hold on to lots of bad holds in a row) and move on from there, as the graphic below shows for the first year.
How You’ll Train and What You’ll Gain
Your Bouldering Strength and Power Program is for boulderers of all abilities. It’s designed for people who don’t have all day to train, with workouts maxing out at about 3 hours tops (usually it’s less than that). You’ll train every aspect of bouldering in your 3 workouts every week, cycling through the 6-week phases described above.
Every workout is labeled in your dashboard with the icons below to tell you what you’ll be focusing on that day.
Power Endurance
If you can do every move on your projects, but you can’t do all of them in a row, this program will give you the power endurance you need.
Finger Strength
This program will help increase your all-important finger strength with fingerboard workouts, climbing workouts, and campus board workouts.
Power
If you lack the ability to do big moves to small holds, this program will train your power with campus board workouts and specific climbing drills.
Projecting
The projecting days will help give you the mental and physical stamina you need to climb strong outside all day.
Weight Lifting
Research shows that lifting weights increases strength, so you’ll be using weights to improve finger, shoulder, and core strength, as well as for injury prevention.
Cardio
Whether we like it or not, even long boulder problems require cardio fitness, so this program will help you gain that with jogs, bike rides, elliptical, or however you choose to get the job done.
Progress Tracking
Every three weeks you’ll be asked to do the performance test, which is how you’ll track your progress in climbing, finger strength, overall strength, and fitness.
Rest
Rest weeks are worked into the program every 7th week so that you can recover properly and keep improving. You can still climb lightly – you just won’t be training.
Equipment You Need
Video Instruction for Each Exercise
All of the exercises in the program are accompanied by a video showing you how to do the exercise properly and how to make it easier or harder.
It’s important to be able to see how something is done – not just read about it – so they’re all right there on your dashboard for you, so you never have to leave the workout page.
If you have any questions after reading this page, check out the FAQ page, and if that still doesn’t answer your questions, email us at support@trainingbeta.com. We’re here for you!