Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon,  rapidly increasing in popularity and becoming one of the go to training apparatuses out there, we thought it would be a good idea to share their article.

Using the Moon Board may seem simple, but you definitely need to understand some basics to get the most out of your sessions.  This FrictionLabs article explains exactly what the Moon Board is, where it came from, and how to use it properly.

FrictionLabs on Training on the Moon Board:

If you have never used or heard of the Moon Board, definitely click through below for the basics.  However, to give you an idea of what training on one of these boards is all about, here’s what FrictionLabs has to say about its training value:

The Moon Board is a perfect training tool for the climbers who crave a little more challenge and variety in their workout. Here are some practical applications and results you can expect if you seriously dedicate time to the board:

• Increased finger strength: I’ve already pointed out the nature of the hold sets––small crimps, bad pinches, slopey jugs, and more. Put in a few weeks and you may notice your tendons becoming like steel.
• Increased core strength and raw power: The problems in the app’s database tend to feature high-steps, big reaches, and dynamic moves. Force yourself to hold on––your core muscles will strengthen and your power output will multiply.
• Better footwork and toe tension: To start, the foot holds on the bottom panel are small and slopey, forcing you to focus on keeping the tension in your toes. Additionally, many problems feature hard moves that favor those who can keep their feet on the wall. Focus on careful foot placements and tension to drastically improve your footwork.

If you like what you see here, definitely click through below to read the rest of the article (and grab some chalk while you’re at it!).  Just remember that even though climbing on the Moon Board can be very fun it is a training tool just like a hangboard.  Using it has a time and a place.  Keep this in mind and the Moon Board can help you make some serious strength and power gains!

Full Article: FrictionLabs – Getting Started on the Moon Board

(photo courtesy of frictionlabs.com)

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• TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades
• MoonClimbing: Moon Board
• FrictionLabs Features Dan Mirsky: Fundamentals of Training for Climbing
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