Alex Megos is one of the world’s top climbers having dispatched some of the hardest routes and boulder problems.  While his tick list speaks for itself, one of the things that makes Alex stand out the most is how quickly he has sent many of the world’s test pieces.  He was the first climber in the world to onsite a 5.14d with his ascent of Estado Critico and he managed to climb Realization/Biographie 5.15a on just his third attempt.  While many top climbers spend countless sessions projecting climbs at or near their limit, Alex seems to be able to transition from working a climb to sending it faster than anyone else.

How Alex Megos Sends Quickly:

To be able to climb so many hard lines so quickly, Megos’ physical abilities are clearly on an extremely elite level.  However, equally important is his mental approach to working routes and boulder problems, which is fine tuned to be extremely fast and efficient.  By being efficient, Alex doesn’t waste his energy on burn after burn of projecting.  Ultimately, it is this ability to move from projecting to sending so quickly that has let Alex amass such an impressive tick list so quickly.

To help you learn how to send more efficiently, here’s an article from Climbing Magazine by JP Whitehead in which Alex shares the mental process behind his fast assents, and then outlines some tips to help you move from projecting to sending as quickly as possible.

“’I just don’t like falling; that’s it,’ he says of his secret to climbing hard routes fast. He also has a tried-and-true process for working climbs: a positive approach, thoughtful projecting, and efficient attempts. ‘I convince myself that it’s completely possible,’ he says.” – JP Whitehead

Alex Megos’ Tips on Sending Efficiently:

1. Ignore beta
2. Improve stamina
3. Be positive
4. Don’t stress
5. Have fun

Click through below to read the full article with Alex Megos and learn more about how he manages to be so efficient in his climbing.  While we all won’t be onsiting 5.14d on our next trip to the crag, learning how to apply these tips to your climbing will certainly help you accomplish your climbing goals.  You never know, they may just have you climbing your dream routes in a matter of tries.

Full Article: Fast and Decisive Sending with Alex Megos

(photo: Andrew Burr; courtesy of climbing.com)

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