A couple weeks ago we posted the first half of an interview Dr. Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor, did with Spanish climber and trainer Eva Lopez about injury prevention and what she does to keep herself and her athletes from getting sidelined by injury.  In this first part of the interview, Eva talks primarily about her overarching concerns and tenants for injury prevention.

However, in this second part of the interview, Eva and Dr. Vagy touch on more specific injury prevention concerns that are relevant to all climbers and especially those who engage in systematic training.

“They are fundamental, and it’s funny how unaware we are that the way we climb and train, which exercises we pick and even our daily behavior have a direct impact on our development as climbers. Every day, each exercise, counts; and the succession of good and bad habits and movement patterns has an impact on what we are and we can become.” – Eva Lopez

Injury Prevention Topics Covered:

While the first part of the interview dealt primarily in Eva’s view of injury prevention in a general sense, this second half touches on the injury prevention concerns for specific types of training and how this fits into managing risk of injury while training.  The topics addressed are:

1. Finger training on the hangboard
2. Importance of proper movement patterns when climbing and training
3. Importance of daily prevention programs for long term climbing health

While it certainly makes sense to understand Eva’s overall theories about injury prevention, this second part of the interview spells out some practical advice about these three topics.  Click through below to read the full interview and learn more.

More Injury Prevention Information:

As we said before, both Dr. Vagy and Eva Lopez are two of the most knowledgable injury prevention sources in the world.  Do yourself a favor and take the time to learn from them before you get injured.  Once you have read this article and are looking to take your injury prevention work more seriously check out our Injury Prevention Guide by Dr. Jared Vagy.  It is full of even more information that will help you translate Eva’s concerns and rules into an actual injury prevention program to keep you healthy and climbing strong.

Full Article: Eva Lopez Climbing Injury Prevention II

(photo by javipec; courtesy of theclimbingdoctor.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Review: Transgression Hangboard (and Training Plan) by Eva Lopez
• 5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter
• Emerging Concepts in Injury Prevention: Pulley Strain
• Injury-Free Movement for Rock Climbers