Eric Hörst Intro to Fingerboard Training

Time and time again here at Training Beta we talk about how much we love fingerboard training. In our minds, training on a hangboard is one of the most important features of any training plan.

“Not surprisingly, then, the fingerboard has become the single most important piece of training equipment a climber can own. While actual climbing must always comprise the backbone of an effective training program (skill first!), the act of climbing is not the most effective way to develop grip strength.” – Eric Hörst

However, this emphasis on fingerboard training as the most effective way to develop finger strength does not mean that any kind of exercise done on a hangboard is a safe and effective way of improving grip strength. In fact, it is quite the opposite. Effective fingerboard training requires a detailed, structured, and methodical approach for it to produce the desired gains without resulting in injury. For climbers who have never trained on a hangboard before, the basic requirements of safe and effective fingerboard training can get lost in the minutia of different protocols as far as number of hangs, amount of rest, amount of weight added/removed, ect.

To help climbers who have never really trained on a hangboard before, here’s an article by climbing trainer Eric Hörst of Training for Climbing that provides an introduction to fingerboard training by giving an overview of the basic principles of how to get started without getting bogged down in too much detail.

In his article, Hörst discusses the importance of being able to vary the load or weight applied to the fingers, the need for a structured plan, the difference between using a fingerboard to train max strength and strength endurance, and the paramount importance of using good technique and maintaining proper form to prevent injury.

If you are new to fingerboard training or are looking for a good refresher, click through bellow the check out the complete article and consider incorporating some hangboarding into your training. If you do so properly, you’ll be amazed at the results.

Click Here: Intro to Fingerboard Training with Eric Hörst

(Photo Credit: Matt Pincus; @mpincus87)