You can make fingerboarding as complicated or as simple as you like.  The good thing is that as long as you are using proper form and consistently progressing the difficulty your fingers will get stronger.

To help you fingerboard effectively and keep things as simple as possible, here’s a video from Moon Climbing and EpicTV with British boulder David Mason in which he outlines a basic max-strength hangboard routine you can add into your weekly training program.

David Mason Fingerboard Routine:

The details of the entire workout are described in the video and written out on the EpicTV page which you can reach by clicking through below.  David does a great job of making the workout very easy to follow and demonstrating proper form.

Additionally, David really stresses the importance of throughly warming up before starting this fingerboard routine.  He believes that simply doing a bit of climbing prior to starting isn’t enough as it does not guarantee that your fingers will be full recruited.  Here’s the warm up protocol he follows before starting his fingerboard session:

Warm up routine –
5-8 secs with 50% max weight added
1-3 mins rest
5-8 secs with 75% max weight added
1-3 mins rest
5-8 secs with 95% max weight added

Fingerboard Routine Video:

To see the full workout watch the video here or click through below for the original:

Finger Strength Programs:

With all the fingerboard programs out there, it can be tempting to bounce between them hoping one will produce quick results.  To help you avoid that tendency, we offer Finger Strength Programs that take all the guess work and programing out of the equation.  They simply tell you exactly what to do and when to do it.  Plus, there are programs for beginners, intermediate, and advanced climbers so no matter your ability level there’s a program for you!

Check them out here:

Original Video: David Mason – Fingerboard Routine

(video still courtesy of epicTV.com and moon climbing.com)

Other Articles You Might Like:

• Training For Climbing – Finger Strength Video
• Eva Lopez Finger Strength Training
• Research on Grip Strength Training
• 5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter