We all know that climbing helps us get strong over time. It would be nice to think that strength develops evenly. However, due to old injuries, incorrect form when training, uneven movement patterns, and the nature of our sport, we can often develop muscle imbalances. When not dealt with, these imbalances can lead to injuries over time.

To help you identify and then correct any muscle imbalances you might have, here’s an article from Climbing Magazine by Zoe Gates.

“Climbers commonly experience uneven shoulder strength, which can be noticeable when locking off; uneven forearm strength; and tight chest muscles due to overdeveloped lats. Imbalances can cause tendonitis, muscle strain, and rotator cuff injuries, and poor posture and subsequent back and neck pain.” – Zoe Gates

Prevent and Correct Muscle Imbalances

To help you deal with muscle imbalances, Gates asserts that the first step is to identify them. She recommends doing this with a coach, trainer, or using video analysis with a climbing partner.

Once identified, Gates suggests the next step is to correct them by building up base level strength. In doing this, she stresses the importance of maintaining strict form. Using correct form is much more important than jumping to heavier weights or more advanced exercises. To keep form the priority, Gates suggests starting out doing exercises with higher reps at a lower intensity. This will let you learn proper technique while you work on evening out your strength levels. We seriously recommend sticking to this approach. After all, we are trying to correct muscle imbalances not develop new ones.

Gates outlines lots of different exercises that can be used to help correct muscle imbalances in her article. You can read all about them for yourself by clicking through below. Just keep in mind that these exercises are simply suggestions for common muscle imbalances seen in climbers. Not all of these exercises will necessarily apply to you. Start by identifying any muscle imbalances you have. Then, work to correct them in your strength training.

Full Article: Climbing Magazine – Prevent and Correct Muscle Imbalances

(photo courtesy of climbing.com)

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