A few weeks ago, we posted a video about Chris Sharma committing to a training program with high level climber and trainer Paxti Usobiaga.  If you haven’t seen it, the video is extremely motivating.  Not only do you get to see Chris really digging deep to get through some brutal looking circuits, but you also hear about one of the best climbers of all time trying to tweak their approach to reach the next level.  This is the same process that climbers of any ability level go through if they want to improve.

Today, we have an article from Outside Magazine featuring an interview with Chris Sharma in which he delves further into his motivations behind trying out a structured training approach.  While the article does not cover the specifics of Chris’ training program, it is a motivating read as it delves deeper into the mental side of how and why a climber who has been at the top of the sport for 20 plus years even thought trying out a new approach was a good idea at all.

“I’ve started thinking of myself as an athlete instead of a climber. Climbing has been more of an art than a sport for me. But now, accepting that I’m an athlete has allowed me to explore what being a high-level athlete means.” – Chris Sharma

Chris Sharma on Motivation:

As we said above, this article and interview are not really about the nuts and bolts of Chris’ training.  Instead, they both really focus on Chris’ motivations behind trying out training at all.  In other words, having established and repeated the world’s hardest routes, why change up the approach at all?

What the article really covers is the fact that Chris felt the need to train because his commitments as a new father and a businessman mean he simply doesn’t have as much time to just throw himself at the rock day in and day out.  He needs to be more efficient with his time so that when he does have time to get out climbing he can really make it count.

Obviously, as a professional climber, Sharma both wants and needs to stay fit and keep climbing.  However, just like the rest of us who have to juggle all our “real life” responsibilities and fit our passion for climbing in around those time constraints, Chris is adapting his approach as he goes so that his climbing doesn’t suffer despite his new commitments.

Click through below to read the full article and interview.  Any climber with limited time and a desire to keep improving will certainly find something to relate to.

Full Article: Chris Sharma on Training

(photo courtesy of outsideonline.com)

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