Strength Training Blog Posts
Training For Climbing – Finger Strength Video
If you follow this blog, then you've definitely noticed that we believe finger strength training on a hangboard is one of the foundations of training for climbing. While we do our best to provide you with information on different effective [...]
Barbell Rehab
When people talk about strength training for climbing, most assume that it should be focused primarily on finger strength and our ability to pull. While both of these attributes are definitely important, focusing entirely on them neglects training overall strength [...]
Research on Grip Strength Training
While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing in the last few years, most of what climbers base their training programs off of is anecdotal evidence that has not been definitely proven by scientific studies. [...]
Simulation Training: How to Do a Move You Can’t Do
If you have a specific goal route or boulder, you aren't going to send if you can't do all the individual moves. Once you can do all the moves, it doesn't mean that the send is in the bag, but [...]
Weight Lifting Guidelines with Steve Bechtel
More and more climbers are starting to incorporate traditional weight lifting into their climbing training. When used properly, weight training can be a powerful tool to increase overall strength levels and prevent injury. However, when training for climbing, weight lifting [...]
BD Bootcamp Ladies Edition
Two summers ago for the first BD Bootcamp Black Diamond, athletes Joe Kinder, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky committed to putting outdoor climbing on hold while they trained together in an effort to up their overall climbing level. This time [...]
Campus 301 with Will Anglin
Over the past couple of months, we shared a series of articles about campus training from coach and trainer Will Anglin. Will's goal in this series was to explain the ways campusing can be used as an extremely effective [...]
Limit Bouldering with The Power Company
Bouldering is a staple of almost every successful training program. Simply put, whether you are training for routes or for boulders themselves, bouldering is one of the most effective ways to train power where you are still working on movement [...]
Lynn Hill on Dynoing
Lynn Hill is a climber who needs no introduction. However, at 5'1" and a half, Lynn has consistently had to come up with creative beta to allow her to move past long reaches that taller climbers can simply span. Today [...]
Dynoing Basics with Connor Griffith
If you have never dynoed before, then watching someone explode upwards, fly through the air, and latch the next hold can seem like a miracle and something totally out of your ability level. However, dynoing, like any other skill in [...]