Strength Training Blog Posts
Campus Training with Will Anglin
If you are looking to increase your power, one of the best options is campus training. Using a campus board allows you to train power in a way that is both quantifiable and relatively sport specific to climbing. However, using a [...]
The Hierarchy of Training with Steve Bechtel
If you are not a full time dirtbag or a professional climber, then chances are you have constraints on your time that can at times prevent you from climbing or training as much as you would like. While these "real [...]
Alli Rainey on Being Disciplined
Being a climbing training website, all of us here at Training Beta obviously love taking our training seriously. Personally, one of my favorite feelings in climbing is completing a training cycle where I truly know I have been disciplined and [...]
Eric Hörst – Uneven-Grip Pull-ups
Are you looking to improve your lock off strength? How about being able to do a one-arm pull-up? If so, then one exercise you should incorporate into your training is uneven-grip pull-ups. Here is an article by climbing trainer Eric [...]
Staying Power – How to Last All Day at the Crag
Personally, I'd like to be climbing pretty much all day every day. Now, obviously, this isn't possible as we all know everyone needs rest days. However, wouldn't it be nice to be able to maximize the days we can climb [...]
Shauna Coxsey and Alex Megos Training Video
Shauna Coxsey and Alex Megos are two of the world's elite climbers. They have both spent countless hours in the gym training to perfect their craft. However, both athletes are still as hungry as ever to continue training hard in [...]
Alex Johnson – Systems Training
Alex Johnson is no stranger to hard climbing. However, just like the rest of us she has to work hard and train hard. This year she is working towards her goals of sending The Swarm V14 in Bishop and a [...]
Improving Footwork with Dave Sheldon
If you watch a beginner climber in the gym, the first thing you'll notice is they are neglecting their feet and only using their arms. To help them out, the first thing you would tell them is "Use your feet." [...]
Movement Practice with Steve Bechtel
When you sent your hardest route or boulder problem did it feel easy? I don't mean that the entire process and session after session of attempts felt easy, just the final send. What happened to make something that at first [...]
Alli Rainey – Breathing
When you top out a boulder problem or exit the crux section of a sport route do you find you're breathing heavy or have been holding your breath? If this is you, here's an article by Alli Rainey about the [...]