Strength Training Blog Posts
Winter Training Strategies with Alli Rainey
If you aren't lucky enough to live in an area with in-season winter climbing, then the winter months are the perfect time to buckle down and do some serious training. However, if you want to ensure your hard work produces [...]
Power Training and the Aging Climber: Injury, Adaptation and Strategy
We have posted before about the effects age can have on training for climbing and in doing so we have noted that unfortunately there does come a point at which making gains, especially in power and strength, becomes more difficult [...]
Power Training Video with Louis Parkinson
If you are looking to climb hard boulder problems then at a certain point you are going to have to incorporate some power training into your routine. Most climbers accomplish this by training on a campus board. However, to give [...]
Deadlifting for Climbing with Crux Crush
It seems like incorporating deadlifting and other power lifting into climbing training is a new trend that many top climbers and trainers are praising. While it may seem like your training energy could be better spent just climbing or hitting [...]
Training for Action Directe Part III
Over the past year we have been following Luzan Matyas' quest to train for and climb the world famous route Action Directe 5.14d/9a. So far we have posted videos of Luzan training individual sections of the route on replicas and [...]
David Mason Training for King of Limbs
David Mason is an extremely strong British climber who has travelled extensively amassing a highly respectable tick list of high quality, difficult boulder problems all around the world. However, while the volume of hard boulder problems David has climbed may suggest [...]
Eric Hörst Intro to Fingerboard Training
Time and time again here at Training Beta we talk about how much we love fingerboard training. In our minds, training on a hangboard is one of the most important features of any training plan. "Not surprisingly, then, the fingerboard [...]
Roof Climbing Tips with Crux Crush
Roof climbing, slab climbing, and every angle in between require their own unique style of movement. As a result, success climbing on different angles requires you to learn a variety of techniques. However, the steeper a climb gets the more [...]
Master Dynos with Sean McColl
If you are not a naturally dynamic climber, dynos and jumps can seem almost impossible and make you feel foolish. However, for harder routes and boulder problems dynos are often an important tool. This is especially true for shorter climbers [...]
Fingerboard and Campus Board for Beginners
Recently we received a question from a beginner climber who was interested in using our bouldering program. However, he was concerned that the program's fingerboard and campus board workouts would put him at risk of injury since he is newer [...]