A Training Program Just for Boulderers

Here is your roadmap to gaining more strength and power on boulder problems. This online bouldering training program is laid out for you by a climbing trainer so you don’t have to plan anything. The workouts and drills are scalable to any level of climber, so it’ll help no matter how hard you currently boulder.

  • 3 unique workouts/week
  • Climbing, core, hangboard, campusing
  • Injury prevention and weight training
  • Videos for every workout
  • Access from any device
  • Bouldering Wall Drills
  • Scalable for all abilities

 

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Dead Point Magazine’s Review

bouldering training program“The program is extremely simple to follow due to the clean layout of the website… What makes this program stand apart from other training books is the clearly-defined “do-this-then-this” format. As long as you’re injury free and prepared to work hard, you don’t need any knowledge of training to begin your personal program. Will these programs make you a better climber? That’s up to you.”

 –Mikey Williams, Dead Point Magazine

Most Climbers Don’t Fail on Their Projects Due to Lack of Trying Hard…

We usually fail to send our projects because we haven’t adequately trained for them. Climbing a lot will only get you so much stronger.

Seeing big gains in your climbing requires weight training, core training, campusing, fitness training, and fingerboarding. And climbing. And it requires specific injury prevention exercises.

We joined forces with climbing trainer Kris Peters to create this all-encompassing and super easy-to-follow Bouldering Strength and Power training program.

It will make you stronger, fitter, and more powerful without the normally high cost of a trainer or the headache of trying to create a program yourself.

Your Training Schedule

Throughout the program, you’ll cycle through different 6-week training phases with 1-week rest periods between each cycle. You’ll cycle through all the necessary parts of training for bouldering, starting with a power endurance phase and move on from there, as the graphic below shows.

bouldering program
EXPLANATION: Each colored bubble represents one of the 11 (6-week) phases. Each arrow represents a rest week between each phase. After completing those 77 weeks (roughly a year and a half), you’ll cycle back through to the beginning of the program. You will be able to see a maximum of 6 weeks of the program on your online dashboard at any given time. 

How You’ll Train and What You’ll Gain

This Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program is for boulderers of all abilities. You get 3 unique workouts every week. The program trains every aspect of climbing, and in your dashboard you’ll find that every workout is labeled with the icons below to tell you if you’ll be training Power, Power Endurance, Finger Strength, Projecting, or Resting that day. Often you’ll be doing more than one of those things during each workout.

Power Endurance

Power Endurance

If you have a climb you want to send and you can do every move, but you can’t do all of them in a row, this program will give you the power endurance you need.

Finger Strength

Finger Strength

If your fingers need to get stronger to grab smaller holds, this program will train that with finger board workouts, climbing workouts, and campus board workouts.

Power

Power

If you lack the ability to do big moves and then grab small holds, this program will train your power with campus board workouts and specific bouldering drills.

Projecting

Projecting

If you only have a few good burns in you every day on your project, and you want to climb harder for longer, this program will give you the mental and physical stamina you need to project strong all day.

Core and fitness

Fitness and Core

If your core and big muscle groups could use some strengthening to keep you on those steep boulders, you will gain overall fitness and core strength in every workout of this program.

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Rest

Rest weeks happen after each 6-week phase so that you can recover properly and keep improving. On rest weeks, you can still climb – you just won’t be doing weights, fingerboarding, or campusing.

Equipment You Need

  • Bouldering Wall
    • Smart Phone, tablet, or computer
      • Set of dumbbells
        • Set of ankle weights
          • Fingerboard
            • Short rope, doubled up theraband, or a pulley system to take weight off for your fingerboard exercises 
              • Theraband

                • Optional Equipment

                • TRX or a set of gymnastic rings

                  • Pull up bar (you can use your hangboard instead, though)

                   

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                  Nick’s Success on The Program

                  The training program has massively helped my climbing (I’ve subscribed to the bouldering program since it launched)! This year I’ve sent 37 7A/V6 or harder boulder problems, including four 7Bs/V8s, having managed just two in 2014.

                  I think the program has been a big factor in that, so thanks!!

                  -Nick

                  Video Instruction for Each Exercise

                   

                  All of the exercises in the program are accompanied by a video showing you how to do the exercise properly and how to make it easier or harder.

                  It’s important to be able to see how something is done – not just read about it.

                  Here’s just one of the many videos you’ll find in the program. They’re all right there on your dashboard for you, so you never have to leave the workout page.

                  Who Is Your Trainer?

                   

                  The author of this Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program is Kris Peters of Denver, Colorado. He’s also the author of our 6-Week Power Endurance Program here at TrainingBeta (see his full bio). He’s one of the top climbing trainers in the U.S., and has worked with pro-level climbers, including Daniel Woods, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Johnson, Emily Harrington, Matt Segal, Matty Hong, and many others.

                  However, luckily for the rest of us, he doesn’t just work with genetic mutants. He works with climbers of all levels every day, training people one-on-one, in group sessions, and from a distance with climbers all over the world.

                  Kris has been training climbers since 2010, and athletes of all kinds since 2004. With many certificates as a Personal Trainer, Kris is highly qualified to guide you through this comprehensive climbing training program.

                  Pricing

                  If you were to get personal training from Kris or any other climbing trainer out there, it would cost you at least $60/hour. If you were to train with that person 3 times a week (like you do in this program), you’d be spending up to $1,680/month to get stronger. This program allows you to get comprehensive, step-by-step training for a very small fraction of that price all year round.

                  Monthly

                  $1499monthly
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 1-Month Free Trial
                  Start 1-Month Free Trial

                  Yearly
                  (Best Value)

                  $14995yearly
                  • 2 Months Free! ($12.49/mo)
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 1-Month Free Trial
                  Start 1-Month Free Trial

                  6-Month

                  $80956 mo
                  • Save $8.99! ($13.49/mo)
                  • 3 Workouts/Wk
                  • Access To Dashboard
                  • Monthly Q&A Webinars
                  • 1-Month Free Trial
                  Start 1-Month Free Trial

                  1-MONTH FREE TRIAL WITH ANY MEMBERSHIP

                  (No credit card necessary. Cancel at any time.)

                   

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                  What Happens After I Sign Up?

                  After you sign up, you’ll get an email that will give you immediate access to more instructions, more training info, and your dashboard, where you’ll find your first week of workouts. New workouts will be added to your dashboard every week after that, and you’ll be able to see up to 6 weeks at a time.

                  workout

                  Workouts

                  There are 3 workouts/wk, except for rest weeks (every 7th week). Two of the workouts include bouldering drills, and the third is either a fingerboard or a campus board session. All days also include core, shoulder, strength, and/or fitness exercises, as well.

                  climbing training program

                  Have Questions?

                  If you ever have any questions throughout the program, you can email us at info@trainingbeta.com or give us a call at 650-731-5615 and we’ll answer you promptly. We’re here to help.

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                  Dashboard

                  The dashboard contains your first week of workouts when you first sign up. After that, you’ll get 3 new workouts each week, and your dashboard will display up to 6 weeks of workouts.

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                  Free Trial

                  You get a 1-month free trial with any of the memberships, and you can cancel at any time. We want you to be able to see the program and use it so you can be sure it’s what you want before you commit to paying anything.

                  value

                  Incredible Value

                  To get this kind of well-laid out, day-by-day training plan, you’d have to pay a trainer in-person thousands of dollars. This plan is effective AND affordable for any boulderer year-round.

                  Frequently Asked Questions

                  Here are some commonly asked questions about the Bouldering Strength and Power Program. If you still have questions after reading through these, please email us at info@trainingbeta.com and we’ll get back to you ASAP.

                  They take anywhere from 1 to 2.5 hours, depending on how many sets you choose to do of each exercise, and how much time you have available. We tried to make this doable for even busy climbers. Plus, the research shows that it doesn’t take much to get stronger if you’re training the right way.

                  No, you can do as many or as few of the training days as you want, or as your schedule allows. We understand that not everyone has time to train 3 days a week and then climb outside sometimes, as well. Our philosophy is that some training is better than no training, so if you can only do 1 day in the gym per week, so be it. We think people do better at attaining their goals when they have a plan in their hands, and this is your weekly/monthly/yearly template to work from.

                  You should climb outside as often as you want – it’s totally encouraged. Everyone is different in their schedules and their requirements for rest days, so you’ll need to figure out how many days a week is best for you to climb. Since this is an ongoing program, you might use these workouts 3 days a week during the winter and then only 1 or 2 in the fall during prime climbing season (or vice versa depending on what your seasons look like). And that’s totally fine. These workouts are here to support you in getting stronger, but if climbing outside is making you happy and taking the place of some of the climbing days we’ve laid out for you, then good for you.

                  If you’re a weekend warrior, try to do the fingerboard or campus workout (whichever it is that week) on Tuesday and then one of the climbing workouts on Thursday, then climb outside on the weekends. If that’s too much, just do one of those workouts during the week – maybe on Wednesday instead to give yourself more rest days.

                  Route climbers would benefit from this program because whenever you improve your strength, power, and power endurance, you’re improving your overall climbing ability, and that’s what this program trains. But this program is built to accommodate boulderers who train pretty exclusively on an indoor bouldering wall. There is no route climbing in this program. Here’s a link to our Route Climbing Training Program if you’re interested in that. 

                  It depends on how long you stay on it and how precisely you follow it. If you were to push yourself hard and stick with at least most of the program, you could take your climbing up a number grade or 2 within a couple months on this program, especially if your max ability is below V6. If you just take it easy on yourself and don’t do many of the sets and miss the workouts every week, your progress will obviously be slower. It’s up to you. The longer you stay on it, the stronger you can potentially get!

                  Any time! It’s best to start this training program at a time when you want to get stronger, which is pretty much always \:) Seriously, though, any time is a good time to add some training into your schedule, unless you have a comp or a trip coming up in just a few short days, in which case you should be tapering and not training hard. Anyone else could stand to put 1-3 focused training days into their schedule.

                  No, but it is cyclical. It’s hard to create a periodized training schedule that serves everyone because everyone has different goals at different times (ex: I want to climb my hardest boulder problem this coming April, so I have x number of months to get to my peak). So we created a program that will cycle between power endurance, power, and strength.

                  Having said that, even during the power endurance and power phases, you’ll be building finger strength on the hangboard. And even during the strength phase, you’ll be doing some power training on the campus board. And through all the phases, you’ll be maintaining your overall fitness. And don’t worry, there’s plenty of rest built into the program (one week off of intense training every 7th week) between phases to help you recover and continue improving.

                  Here’s the deal with the cardio. Kris deals with a lot of people who are physically just downright unfit. They can’t run a mile without feeling like they’re going to pass out, and it takes them over 10 minutes to do it.

                  Having a low level of fitness will not help your climbing, and working on your overall fitness will make you able to deal with doing more climbing in a day and push through being in pain (the good kind) so you can try harder in general.

                  If you’re super physically fit already, then skip the cardio or just do what you normally do for it. Daniel Woods is not a runner, but Kris has watched him crush the treadmill at the gym. He’s super fit and it shows in his climbing.

                  That means that Kris isn’t worried about having him run 3 days a week, or ever. If you have a base level of fitness, meaning you can walk up hills with a pack on, or jog comfortably for a mile, or ride your bike across town at a good pace without huffing and puffing, then skip it.

                  The videos will actually tell you how to make exercises easier or harder. For instance, on the campus board, you can put your feet on the footholds and do the moves, or you’ll be instructed just to deadhang. For pull-ups, we’ll show you how to do negative pull-ups or jumping pull-ups so you can work up to the real thing.

                  At various intervals throughout the program, you’ll be given a few different fitness or strength challenges, which are meant to track your progress. We’ll instruct you to record your results from those challenges so you can look back and see how much you’ve improved over time. In general, though, you’ll start to see improvements in your ability to recover, climb more difficult problems in a session, and more of them in a row. We recommend keeping notes in a journal, on your “notes” app in your phone, or in an online journal app. If you find a good one for climbing, please let us know at info@trainingbeta.com – we’d love to hear about it!

                  That depends on whether you’re trying to climb hard outside at the moment or not.

                  If you’re trying to climb hard outside…

                  Here are some options.

                  1 Day During the Week

                  Then consider cutting down the workouts to 1 or 2 per week during the weekdays, and then climb hard outside during the weekend. If you’re just going to do one day of climbing during the week, do one fingerboard/campus board workout and warm up by climbing up to 2 grades below your limit. Do this preferably on Tuesday or Wednesday so you have plenty of time to recover for the weekend.

                  2 Days During the Week

                  If you’re going to do 2 days during the week, then do 1 fingerboard/campus board workout and one climbing workout on maybe Tuesday and Wednesday, or Tuesday and Thursday during the week. Do the fingerboard/campus board workout on the first training day during the week so you have plenty of time to recover before the weekend.

                  3 Days During the Week

                  If you insist on doing all the workouts during the week, then do one day of climbing on Monday, rest one day and do the fingerboard/campus board workout on Wednesday, and climb again on Thursday. That way you at least have 1 day of rest before the weekend.

                  If you’re not trying to climb hard outside…

                  Then schedule the 3 workouts whenever you can fit them in your schedule while making sure you get enough rest. You want to have at least 1 day of rest on either side of your fingerboard/campus board workout, so that’s really the only defining rule. Maybe do a climbing day on Monday, a fingerboard/campus board day on Thursday, and a climbing day on Saturday. Or something along those lines.

                  When you log in to your account, you’ll be able to see your current week (it will automatically move forward every week) and your 5 most recent weeks, so 6 weeks total. You’ll be able to see a description of the workouts you’ll be doing plus videos or pictures to show you exactly how to do them. 

                  You can cancel your membership by logging in to your account and going to “My Account” and clicking on the cancel button. You can cancel at any time. 

                  When you cancel your membership with us, you no longer have access to the workouts. If you log in without a current membership, you won’t be able to see your dashboard anymore.

                  Having 6 weeks of current workouts on your dashboard will help mitigate any of these issues, but if you ever need your dashboard to display something else, you can just email us at info@trainingbeta.com, and we’ll get back to you quickly.

                  What People Are Saying

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                  No, thanks. Take me to the other climbing training programs.