Dr. Christina Heilman: Winning the Mind Game
We have a new member of the TrainingBeta team! Meet Dr. Christina Heilman! With over twenty years of experience as a sport psychologist, Dr. Chris has worked with countless climbers and athletes from over thirty sports to help them harness the power of the mind and achieve peak levels of [...]
Matt Pincus: 2019 Training Lessons Part 2
A couple of weeks ago I shared what I felt were the three main lessons I learned as a coach in 2019. I outlined these lessons both as part of my commitment to keep learning and growing as a coach and also in the hope of inspiring you to reflect [...]
Transcript Highlight: James Lucas on Using Intermediate Goals
As climbers, most of us have dream climbs we'd love to send someday in the future. Whether they are life-list routes, boulders, or big walls, these dream lines can be great motivators for continual improvement. The idea being that one day you want to be good enough to tick one [...]
Matt Pincus: Top 3 Training Lessons I Learned in 2019
One of my favorite parts of being a climbing coach is the tremendous amount of continual learning that's part of the job. Reading and researching climbing training are definitely huge sources of knowledge, but there's no substitute for insights I gain through working directly with the athletes I coach and [...]
Transcript Highlight: Josh Larson on Training Team USA for the Olympics
Climbing has made it to the Olympics in 2020. While this fact isn't exactly breaking news, what is new and exciting is that Kyra Condie and Nathaniel Coleman have punched their tickets to Toyko after impressive performances at the qualifying event in Toulouse, France. This means they will be joining [...]
Matt Pincus: 6 Reasons Your Training Isn’t Working
When I first started coaching climbers, I thought it would be all about the nuts and bolts of training program design. I really thought that most of what I was going to be doing was guiding climbers through the details of hangboard protocols, exercise selection, and set/rep schemes. I definitely [...]
James Lucas: How I Trained for Midnight Lightning
Maybe you've heard of James Lucas through his writing for Climbing Magazine. However, if you'd heard of James Lucas before that, chances are you know of him as a dirtbag climber. That's because James did spend a better part of a decade living out of his car, working odd jobs, and [...]
Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles
ANNOUNCEMENT Coach Matt Pincus is now offering 1-hour coaching sessions. Normally, Matt only works with people on a monthly or quarterly basis, but for the holidays he's offering hourly Zoom sessions so climbers can get their questions answered and quickly get on track with their training. Here's what climbers [...]
Transcript Highlight: Dr. Chris Heilman on Starting with the Breath
Most top climbers agree that their mindset is one of the most important factors influencing their performance. Whether they are sport climbers, boulders, or comp climbers, these athletes agree that they can't put forth their best efforts unless they have put themselves into the correct mental state first. That sounds [...]
Dan Mirsky: How I Trained for Fat Camp
Dan Mirsky is one of the most passionate and driven climbers I know. When it comes to putting his head down and working his projects, Dan is as dedicated as they come. Dan is also calculated and driven with his training. If he thinks something is going to improve his [...]