How to Approach Routes Systematically: Ground-Up or Top-Down?
As a coach, I have taught clinics, recorded podcasts, written articles, and had countless conversations about helping climbers improve their tactics with the aim of making their process for working, and eventually sending, routes and boulders more efficient. While I still think tactics are extremely important and an area most [...]
Holiday Sales Through January 1st
HOLIDAY SALE - 35% OFF THROUGH JAN 1, 2023 We have 4 holiday sales going on until January 1st! Check them out below and email info@trainingbeta.com if you have any questions. 1) Workshop Bundle 35% Off We’ve bundled Alex’s TRX, Hangboarding, and Skills & Drills Workshops into [...]
Preparing for Big Wall Free Climbing by James Lucas
Preparing for Big Wall Free Climbing: The Basics by James Lucas Yosemite’s El Capitan serves as the crucible for big wall free climbing. With plenty of sunshine and typically stable weather, getting a chance to free climb the granite monolith is often the height of many climbers’ careers. Getting to [...]
The Limits of the Fingerboard for Finger Strength Training by Dr. Tyler Nelson
The Limits of the Fingerboard for Finger Strength Training by Dr. Tyler Nelson At first glance, it makes sense why we've used a fingerboard historically. Hanging on our fingers with added weight should equal more available force on the climbing wall. Well, this article will discuss how it isn't that [...]
How to Use Circuits in Climbing Training
Announcement! Quick little thing. Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this [...]
The Value of Climbing with a Clock
Climbing Against Time: The Value of Climbing with a Clock by James Lucas With thirty seconds left on the clock, Maya Madere pulled on to the second problem at the 2022 National Team Trials at Stone Summit in Atlanta. Madere swung her arm, gastoned, stepped through and then pulled in, [...]
Mechanics-Focused Climbing to Avoid and Rehabilitate Injuries
This article was written by Ross Bodine (Neely's Physical Therapist). Ross Bodine, PT, DPT, FAAOMPT is a fellowship trained physical therapist that works at Alta Physical Therapy and Pilates in Boulder, Colorado. He specializes in identifying and correcting aberrant movement patterns in climbers before and after injury. Mechanics Focused [...]
Tyler Nelson’s Climbing Injury Prevention Program
Hangboard Workshop January 11th, 2022 Just a little announcement for you... Alex Stiger is teaching a live Hangboarding Workshop for Climbers on Tuesday, January 11th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Standard Time for just $39. In it, you'll learn all about how to use the hangboard properly and how to use [...]
Give the Gift of Training for the Holidays (3 Special Holiday Offers)
Give the Gift of Training for the Holidays (3 Special Holiday Offers) Are you trying to figure out what to give as a gift to the rock climber on your list? We have a few options for you in a few price ranges. All of these are available only until [...]
The Effects of Drug Use on Climbing: Study Results that You Contributed To
A while back, we sent out a survey for our audience to fill out about the effects of drug use on climbing performance. The survey contained questions about alcohol, marijuana, hallucinogens, and amphetamines, and whether they make our experiences of climbing better, worse, or neutral. The survey was part of [...]