How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves
Earlier this summer I was at this route I'd been trying for a few days - a 13a (7c+) called Uncle Dad in the Flatirons in Boulder. I knew I was close to sending, but I was just really uncomfortable, physically and emotionally. My heartrate was faster than normal, I [...]
How Alex Stiger Sent Her First 5.14a
I overheard a woman in Rifle a couple weeks ago say, “if it takes longer than 3 years it doesn’t count anyway.” I immediately thought that was a weird thing to say and now that I have SENT my 4+ year project I can confidently say I do not agree. [...]
What’s Holding Her Back from Reaching Her Climbing Potential: A Coaching Session
As a newly minted life coach with an audience full of rock climbers, it’s a little confusing how my new skillset can be applied to climbers. As a Certified Professional Coach, my job is to ask you empowering questions to help you make decisions, feel more confident, reach goals, communicate [...]
How to Train the Skill of Sending by Matt Pincus
This morning I woke up and there was a slight chill in the air. At least here in Wyoming, the fall season is right around the corner. As I wrap up my summer training block, I couldn’t be more psyched for the crisp days ahead. Beyond simply being excited to [...]
How to Be Ok with “Just” Toproping in Climbing
I got this email recently in response to a blog post I wrote about how I deal with my fear in climbing. In the article, I mentioned that it's totally fine if you're so scared that you don't want to lead climb--ever--and that my mother-in-law only topropes as a 5.12 [...]
6 Things I Do to Overcome My Fear in Climbing
I've talked a lot over the years about my fear in climbing and how I have, well, a lot of it. Compared to some people, that is. I know there are plenty of people who will not lead climb or take falls or do some of the things that [...]
5 Ways Board Climbing Helps My Route Climbing – Neely Quinn
I'm going to admit something to you... I don't like climbing on boulders in gyms. They're so tall and I've gotten whiplash from falling off the tops of them, so I just prefer to be on a rope. BUT I think this fear has really hindered my ability to become stronger over the [...]
My Top 5 Habits for Success in Climbing and Life
Matt Pincus and I recently did a podcast episode about both of our top 3 habits that help make us successful in climbing and in life in general. In preparation for that episode, I wrote down some things and ended up writing out my top 5 habits for success [...]
A Physical Therapist’s Assessment of Neely’s Movement Patterns While Climbing and How They Relate with Injuries
A PT's Analysis of Neely's Movement While Climbing and How It Relates to Injuries This video and article were put together by Ross Bodine (Neely’s Physical Therapist). Ross Bodine, PT, DPT, FAAOMPT is a fellowship trained physical therapist that works at Alta Physical Therapy and Pilates in Boulder, Colorado. He [...]
The First Step in Moving Past Fear in Climbing
The First Step in Moving Past Unnecessary Fear in Climbing By Bryan Dalpes, Mindset and Mental Fitness Coach If you have struggled with intense fear in climbing then you know it can be a confusing and frustrating journey. Thoughts like, “I know I can physically do these moves but I [...]