Bouldering Training: Free Volume Workout
A new trend in training for bouldering is to put all the focus on doing the hardest possible moves. While limit bouldering sessions are certainly important for building power, they do not allow you to do a larger volume of climbing moves. Doing a volume workout that features a larger [...]
Climbing Magazine: 5 Nutrition Tips for Vegetarian Climbers
Proper nutrition is critical for climbers and athletes of all types. Giving your body the fuel it needs to perform and then recover from your efforts should be a central concern for all climbers trying to push their limits. Performance nutrition is a complex topic that goes well beyond the [...]
Concept Climbing: Max Weight Hang Survey
If you look at most mainstream sports, they've had a huge amount of sports science research done in the name of quantifying and improving performance. Having data like this is extremely helpful in that it can help inform training by giving you reliable performance markers to work from. Unfortunately, very little [...]
Rock and Ice: Women’s Guide to Building Power
Power can be a hard thing to train for climbers of any gender. However, while there are plenty of super powerful female climbers out there, women typically find building power more difficult than males. To help any women (or anyone for that matter) struggling to build power, here's an article [...]
Rock Rehab Pyramid Videos
Climbing and training places a ton of repetitive strain on our bodies. Far too many climbers are continually suffering from injuries that make climbing painful, affect performance, and in the worst cases prevent them from climbing all together. It's with the goal of helping climbers resolve these nagging injuries that [...]
Transcript Highlight: Lattice Training on The Training Needs of Males vs Females
It may seem obvious that men and women have different strengths and weaknesses as climbers and athletes. However, while we are quick to make generalizations about which climbs are better suited to either men or women, we don't seem to be using our knowledge about the relative strengths and weakness [...]
Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane Training Video
For most climbers, a climbing trip consists of traveling to one of the many amazing outdoor climbing destinations around the world. However, for top IFSC World Cup competitors like Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane, their 6-day a week training schedule doesn't leave much time for outdoor trips. So, to keep [...]
Eric Hörst – Managing the Fear of Falling Video
One of the most common things holding climbers back is a fear of falling. Whether you are bouldering or sport climbing, there is no way to effectively climb your hardest if you are paralyzed by a fear. Now, obviously there are situations in which fear is an appropriate response to a [...]
Jonathan Siegrist – How Bouldering Has Helped his Sport Climbing
In climbing, most of us have our preferred style whether its sport climbing, trad climbing, or bouldering. Many climbers even end up specializing and climbing within one of these disciplines almost exclusively. Obviously, there is nothing wrong with this kind of specialization as we should all do what makes us [...]
Online Personal Climbing Training with Matt Pincus
We are excited to announce that we are now offering online personal climbing coaching with Matt Pincus! Matt has been a part of TrainingBeta for the past three years as our Content Manager and Social Media Manager, and he's excited to share his extensive training knowledge to help climbers of all [...]