Climbing Magazine: 10 Warm Up and Cool Down Stretches
Warming up properly and doing the necessary body maintenance work is the best way to prevent climbing injuries. An important part of both of these processes is stretching. However, we're not talking about the kind of stretches you learned growing up in gym class. We're talking about the type of [...]
The Climbing Doctor – The Role of Pain in Injuries
One of the most frustrating things in climbing is dealing with injuries. The only thing that can make this process worse is when an injury just seems to be getting worse despite taking time off of climbing to let it heal. However, recent research into the role of pain in [...]
Climbing Magazine – Effective System Board Training
Chances are you've all seen a system board before. It's the mirrored training wall sitting in the corner of your gym collecting dust. However, despite the fact that these boards aren't used all that often, when utilized properly they can be a powerful training tool. To give you an idea [...]
Training for Climbing: Windshield Wipers Core Exercise
There's no such thing as too much core strength in climbing. Having a strong core allows us to keep our hips into the wall, transfer weight through our feet on steep terrain, hold swings, and general move efficiently on rock. Luckily as well, core training has a pretty low risk [...]
Transcript Highlight: Charlie Manganiello on Gaining vs Maintaining Strength
A common trap climbers fall into is thinking that the training you are doing today is going to help you send your project tomorrow. The unfortunate reality is that it takes time for us to really make gains through training. A really hard session days before trying your project isn't [...]
Rock and Ice: Campus-Board Fundamentals
When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power. However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly. If you are going to campus, taking the time to master the campus-board fundamentals is critical to not only [...]
Climb Strong: Effective Warm-Ups
We talk a lot about how our training should be specific to our actual climbing goals. However, when it comes to warming up, we can all acknowledge how important it is, but for most of us warming up simply consists of a couple laps on easier climbs or boulders before [...]
Evening Sends – 5 Minute Fingers
Here at TrainingBeta, we get asked a lot, "What's the best hangboard workout?" Our answer, though, probably isn't what most people are looking for. Sure, different hangboard protocols have different benefits and drawbacks, but, ultimately, the "best hangboard workout" is the one you are actually going to do. And, we're not [...]
Climbing Magazine: Three Subtle Technique Changes with Justen Sjong
When our performance plateaus, most of us immediately feel like we need to double down on our training. After all, climbs would feel a whole lot easier if you just had stronger fingers, could do 1-5-9 on the campus board, and hang on forever. However, the reason we like immediately [...]
ClimbFlow: Leg Strength and Mobility Video
With most climbing training, whether we are hangboarding, campusing, or working out on the rings, we focus almost exclusively on the upper body. While these types of training are definitely valuable as they are climbing specific, completely neglecting your lower body in your training is a mistake. Working on leg [...]